There are those who are not a prophet in their land and get recognition in other latitudes. Others, however, by dint of doing things well, get support inside and outside the home. This is the case of Daniel Roca, chef and owner of Barra Alta. After becoming a benchmark on the Barcelona gastronomic scene since its opening in 2018, he has transferred his culinary commitment, based on the best product, to the Madrid neighborhood of Salamanca, a demanding square where there are any. Today, both restaurants appear among those recommended by the Michelin Guide Spain and Portugal 2022 and 2023 and enjoy the favor of the public in both cities.
The menu of the two spaces is similar, but not identical, because it was about adapting the concept to Madrid, maintaining the essence. In the new restaurant it is more common to share the starters and complete the meal with a main course per person, a custom of the people of Madrid. There are also new recipes here, based on traditional dishes that the chef has adapted. This is the case of the tripe, which is served with chickpeas and comes out especially sweet thanks to the fact that it is cooked over a very low heat, with hours of chupchup, and is improved with the senderuelas that accompany it.
Also, only in Madrid, at least for now, his kitchen prepares eggs with potatoes and foie, a more refined version of broken eggs; Here, they are served at a low temperature and grilled together with a poultry velouté, with French fries, truffle oil and grilled foie Rougié. And of course, the bravas, an emblem of the capital: before being fried, they are candied and served on a brava sauce enriched with roasted garlic mayonnaise, gochu yang and chipotle mayonnaise. The result? Cosmic.
Whether in Madrid or Barcelona, Barra Alta is committed to being faithful to its style: great products made with simplicity, to make them shine without grandiose twists, unnecessary, on the other hand, in front of the pantry that it manages. The salmon, smoked with natural smoke from Maresme pine cones, is from his great friend Carlos Piernas, from the Carpier company. His oysters, great stars on the menu, are from Thierry, from Huîtres Poget in Normandy, among the best on the market. The acorn-fed cuts are from the best firms, those that work with the great restaurants in the country. Their eggs are from Cowards and Chickens, animals raised in true freedom and fed with a feed that changes about five times a year depending on the season or the age of the bird.
All this commitment to excellence, how could it be otherwise, shows in the final result. And without this implying, for the diner, an increase in prices; in fact, Barra Alta is a restaurant with great value for money. Honesty is the flag of the house.
What is there to order in Barra Alta? Of course, oysters are the best start. Classic palates will enjoy the natural ones, perfect in their essential simplicity; the most curious should opt for the acevichadas, with kimchi and coriander, or those served with warm teriyaki sauce, bacon and roe veil. Who gives more? In an era that has surrendered to the croquette almost as a religious icon, the two croquettes of the house are essential, boletus with bacon or roast meat with foie Rougié. Lovers of the sea will enjoy their squid Roman style and cod fritters. For an extra point of marine adventure, you have to opt for the creamy scallop and lobster tartare, for its salad with blue shrimp or for the highly original and spicy Thai coast rooster, well fried, to devour even the spines (literally), served with Asian sauces, mint and coconut.
In a more classic line, their homemade meatballs with cuttlefish and snow peas, the pluma (served with potatoes, candied tomatoes and chimichurri) or the cap i pota with green beans and cod, with a touch of crispy fish skins. All of this is completed with a very sweet dessert offer -the cheesecake presented in a casserole and the chocolate with oil and salt are two superb finales for the party- and a balanced and complete wine cellar, which includes five champagne references and nearly 20 different Spanish denominations. In addition, for those who like to pair from start to finish, several dessert wines.
