Bhutan is a kingdom located in the center of the Himalayas, nestled discreetly between other countries whose names also arouse travel dreams such as Tibet, Assam or Sikkim. It continues to be, even well into the 21st century, one of the most enigmatic territories in the world. Few are those who venture to discover it, intimidated by the high daily rates that the authorities impose precisely to discourage mass tourism.
Of Tibetan culture, the country functions politically as a monarchy, although King Jigme Khesar Namgyal Wangchuck is as atypical as his own country, since on his own initiative he has stripped himself of prerogatives that he has ceded to parliament, and in his day caused a general election that his subjects seemed not to want.
Located on the southern slopes of the Himalayas, Bhutan is generously watered by monsoon rains. Its valleys have the typical alpine appearance, with forests of perennial trees that are very decorative. Its fortress-monasteries (dzong) are another of the great attractions. Among the numerous monasteries that amaze with its typically Tibetan architecture, there is one that stands out in particular, and it is not because of its size but because of its tightrope walker situation.
Leaving the paved road at the height of Shari, in the Paro valley, we must undertake a relaxing walk through the aromatic pine forests. The incline is moderately steep, but the cool Himalayan air makes for a brisk hike. Dramatically, as if placed by a Hollywood set designer, the Taktshang temple appears at the exit of a curve. The vision leaves you breathless. The square-shaped buildings that make up the monastery are literally attached to a vertical precipice at an altitude of about 900 meters. The prayer flags and bells, moved by a gentle breeze that always blows at these heights, add additional charm.
Taktshang is popularly known as the Tiger's Nest, as that is the meaning of its name in Bhutanese. It is said that the first monk who came to meditate came flying on the back of a feline of that caliber (which, by the way, was his transmuted consort!). Noticing such a magnificent location, he entered one of the thirteen nearby caves and spent three months meditating. That same location would have been used by Padmasambhava, diffuser of Buddhism in Tibet, to leave some of his teachings.
The Tiger's Nest is considered sacred in Bhutan. Hence, in 1692 it was decided to build the first monastic building, which was modestly expanded, since the rock projection allows few widths. Upon entering the place, a group of severe monks who have not yet gotten used to receiving visits from onlookers continue with their daily chores, ignoring strangers.
With the skeleton and the wooden roofs and thousands of butter lamps illuminating the altars, it was almost inevitable that different fires would break out throughout its history. The most destructive was the one in 1998, which destroyed the main building and many of its paintings and statues. The country started immediately and only two years later, in what is considered auspicious 2000, the Tiger's Nest recovered its appearance. The square white buildings with cauldron-colored roofs and gilt trim look like a fable on the petty stone ledge on which they sit.
Takgtshan is today one of the most impressive visits to the Himalayas, and the wisdom of the Bhutanese authorities to keep the access road closed to motor vehicles preserves the mysticism of the place. It can only be reached on foot, and this means that some of the tourists do not dare to walk uphill. The Taktshang monastic complex is a 50-minute walk from the car park located just past the town of Shari (12 kilometers from Paro, home of the international airport). For those who need a "push" with stimulants, halfway there is a basic tea and coffee shop.
