Why luxury restaurants and hotels are almost the exclusive territory of French champagne

Cava and other prestigious Catalan sparkling wines already compete with Champagne to win the best menus in restaurants and hotel terraces, both in the national and international markets.

Oliver Thansan
Oliver Thansan
02 November 2023 Thursday 10:33
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Why luxury restaurants and hotels are almost the exclusive territory of French champagne

Cava and other prestigious Catalan sparkling wines already compete with Champagne to win the best menus in restaurants and hotel terraces, both in the national and international markets. Everyone wants to be at Lio Ibiza, Hotel W Barcelona (Vela), Ocean Club in Marbella, El Celler de Can Roca in Girona, Jules Verne de la Tour Eiffel in Paris, 67 Pall Mall in London, Gage

The president of the Cava Regulatory Council, Javier Pagés, states that “we have products to enter these select showcases.” He highlights the commitment that the sector is making to raise the qualitative level with selected vineyards, and exponentially increasing the production of organic and longer-aging cavas.

Pagés is convinced that the differentiation of the cavas from Paraje Calificado (with more than 36 months of aging in the bottle on the lees and with a production limited to a maximum of 8,000 kilos of grapes per hectare) and Guarda Superior (with more than 18 months of aging in the bottle on the lees, the fruit of 100% organic vineyards of a minimum of 10 years and with a production limited to a maximum of 10,000 kilos per hectare) has contributed decisively to the cava achieving greater levels of prestige.

Javier Pagés also has no doubt that “there are more and more operators and consumers who are open and eager for new things and are looking for alternatives to champagne.” He remembers that “before these more luxurious cards only had room for champagne.”

The DO Cava decidedly joined the Hotel Tapa Tour, both in the Barcelona and Madrid editions. In the last Madrid edition, from September 14 to 24, the most emblematic and exclusive hotels in the Spanish capital showed off their best gastronomic finery, in tapas format, with the intention of encouraging all locals and visitors to discover their cuisine. restaurants, gardens and terraces. Up to 80 tapas could be tasted in 24 hotels in Madrid paired with cavas or wines from the DO Ribera del Duero.

The president of the DO Cava Regulatory Council, Javier Pagés, took advantage of the occasion to highlight the great gastronomic versatility of cava with cuisines from all over the planet, as well as “the excellence of pairing with the best cavas.”

DO Cava is also committed to the Passeig de Gourmets on Passeig de Gràcia in Barcelona. It is a popular dish route in about twenty restaurants that offers a range of degustation menus prepared for the occasion that are matched with a selection of cavas.

The president of the Aecava employers' association, Joaquim Tosas, affirms that the sector is insisting on qualitative initiatives that give “more and better reputation in every sense.” Aecava's new master plan has been designed with the determined desire to seek “greater identity and prestige” for cava and increase the average price paid for grapes. It is also intended to turn Aecava into a lobby before administrations and social and economic entities "to convey to society the importance of our sector." Tosas is fully aware that “there are those who pay to get their products on the menus,” but he clarifies that these are actions “with a difficult economic return.”

The president of the Penedès Corpinnat sparkling wine producers association, Ton Mata, states that “we are competing with our heads held high with champagne.” And he says that “everything depends on us and that we make our product as necessary to continue advancing with sparkling wines vinified on the property. We already have the potential, the terroir and the differentiated varieties.” He also affirms that quality Catalan sparkling wine has boarded “an unstoppable train.”

For champagne, the Spanish market is outstanding. In fact, among international markets, Spain occupies ninth place in volume, with 4.9 million bottles annually according to data from the Comité Interprofessionnel du vin de Champagne. Raphael Hernández, senior brand manager in Spain of the select champagnes Dom Pérignon, Krug and Ruinart (from the luxury group Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy), believes that cava and champagne do not compete in luxury establishments. However, he does see competition, “especially thanks to the media and influencer campaigns carried out by Freixenet or Codorníu”, during the Christmas celebrations.

Omar Bravo, wine educator at Varma, which represents the Bollinger and Ayala champagne brands, states that “consumers looking for more sophisticated products are left with the magic of champagne.” Despite this, he recognizes that the most prestigious Catalan sparkling wines are winning many cards thanks to the pull of brands such as Recaredo, Mestres, Gramona, Raventós i Blanc or Juvé

Consumption of the prestige cuvée of Laurent-Perrier champagne is “constantly growing” both in hotels and luxury restaurants, as stated by Amélie Bel Berbel, brand management of Laurent-Perrier in Spain. She adds that they are found in luxury restaurants and hotels “as allies of haute cuisine and the good moments in life.” When she is asked about the competition between cava and other Catalan sparkling wines and champagne, she simply states that “they are two very different products with a different history, soil and grapes.”

However, the ambassador of Taittinger champagne in Spain, Antonio Escofet, states categorically that there is no competition. He considers that they are different products, and adds that “it's like trying to compare whiskey with tequila.” Escofet says that luxury restaurants, hotels or beach clubs “are our natural market,” and remembers that “it is a very limited segment.”