“Good tequila is drunk in a tall, slender, transparent glass. This is how you can appreciate its tones, its density, the aromas of agave and barrel. And it is savored in little by little. No shots.” This is said by Juan Carlos de Magdalena, one of the tequila experts at the La Rojeña distillery, the mother house of the most emblematic tequila in the world: José Cuervo.
That is the last of the lessons that the tour of this historic factory provides, which is obviously located in Tequila. A city in the state of Jalisco that lives for and for the most exported drink in Mexico. As consumed, renowned and even sung, as mysterious. For this reason, a visit to the origin of José Cuervo tequila provides surprises from beginning to end.
That amazement begins even before arriving at La Rojeña, contemplating the agave fields that flood the territory of Jalisco. The elixir is only made with that blue agave, a plant that looks like a cactus but belongs to the lily family, like tulips or lilies. However, he does not have the delicacy of his relatives. Quite the opposite.
“It is a tough plant that we grow for seven years to extract the pineapple from its interior. Taking care of it is our obligation as jimadores.” It is told by Ismael Sánchez who has been with the jima all his life. That is, planting the agave seedlings in the volcanic soil, and then taking care of them in such an arid climate. He barbs its leaves so that more nutrients reach the center of the plant and protects it from worms. And at the time of harvesting he sharpens sickles and knives well to cut the leaves flush and reach the piña, the heart of each agave.
“The agave piñas arrive at the distillery patio and undergo a first examination,” says Alejandra Monroy, who as an engineer in charge of quality control carefully observes the raw material. “They are white, healthy, they weigh from 25 to 90 kilos. You have to think that the plant needs 7 years of cultivation and each bottle of tequilla requires 7 kilos of agave. And we haven't started making it yet!
From here the pineapples are put in the oven. For a day and a half or a little more they remain cooking at 90 degrees. With this, the sugars emerge from the pulp, which goes to a second grinding phase. This results in a juice that must then ferment for several days until it becomes a liquid rich in sugars and low in yeast.
With this so-called dead must the penultimate phase of production begins. A double distillation. The first of fragmentation and the second of rectification. After the latter, tequila emerged in the enormous copper stills. It is already drinkable, but there is still one more step to achieve its different personalities.
Temperament is acquired over time. For example, there are tequilas with a jovial and energetic character, such as white tequila, which rests at most for a couple of months in large wooden barrels. But as soon as the 60 days are exceeded in those containers or in the oak barrels, it becomes rested tequila, with a golden color and a sweeter taste.
Tequila is no longer rested and is called añejo if it remains between one and three years in oak barrels. Enough time to gain a more amber tone, more body and greater complexity on the nose and mouth. However, they can still be developed further. Like the extra aged ones that mature for three to seven years in barrels and that are kept like treasures in the most remote areas of La Rojeña.
In short, they can serve us a tequila that has taken 9, 12 or 14 years from when the agave was planted until the bottle was opened. Therefore, it is better to enjoy them in a tall glass and calmly. “No shots,” as Juan Carlos, the tequila taster, says. It would be a shame to wipe out all his wealth in one shot.
The José Cuervo brand is the great tourist attraction for its city. Thousands of people come to see where their favorite drink is made. Hence, La Rojeña, despite its incessant activity, is visitable. Their guided tours and live tastings during the manufacturing process are the star of Mundo Cuervo, a name given to the tequila brand's tourism commitment and which goes beyond showing how they make their liquor.
It also includes the possibility of discovering local cuisine or tasting unique pairings with tequila at the La Antigua Casona restaurant. Just like Solar de las Ánimas offers, a boutique hotel inspired by viceregal architecture but adapted to the 21st century. A charming accommodation that integrates the Chucho Reyes bar with its wide catalog of tequilas and cocktails ranging from margarita to bloody mariachi.
Without a doubt, José Cuervo is the world leader in tequila. But there are other relevant brands of a drink with a designation of origin and that can only be made in five Mexican states (Jalisco, Nayarit, Guanajuato, Michoacán and Tamaulipas). In fact, without leaving the streets of Tequila you can discover numerous local distilleries, many of artisanal production. However, tequila has become an international drink and not only José Cuervo bottles have crossed borders. In Spain you can also purchase other brands of excellent quality such as Gran Centenario, 1800 or the prestigious creations of Maestro Dovel.
There is evidence that in 1758, José Antonio de Cuervo, a resident of Tequila, began to exploit a blue agave plantation. Just as the issuance of a letter from King Charles IV in 1795 allowing his descendants to produce tequila and trade it in the so-called “Taverna de Cuervo” is accredited. These were the beginnings of this now legendary brand.
Although that establishment soon had to become too small, because the La Rojeña distillery began operating in 1812, which makes it the oldest on the continent. However, it was not until 1903 when Don José Cuervo y Labastida registered the commercial name José Cuervo for his bottles.
During those same years, the powerful family brought the railroad from the city of Guadalajara to Tequila. A journey that today can still be done on a vintage train. A train that of course bears the tequila surname and is the most suggestive way to delve into the experience of getting to know and savor the Cuervo World.
