It is increasingly common to hear custom before the star on duty indicates the name of the brand that signs her red carpet look. The Merriam Webster dictionary defines the adjective as “made or performed according to personal request,” but when we talk about fashion, “bespoke” is not synonymous with “haute couture,” although the development process is not that different.
“For the Oscars or the American Music Awards, orders are usually made several months in advance, especially if the celebrity's attendance is known and if they are nominated,” says Andrea Robredo Ruiz, senior design director at Carolina Herrera New York. .
Before joining the Puig group firm in 2020, the designer worked as head of VIPs and special projects at Coach and was part of the Ralph Lauren and Tom Ford teams. “The design of these garments is specifically adapted to the customer's measurements and preferences, which requires a more detailed design process. Additionally, multiple fit tests are carried out to ensure a flawless result,” she continues.
Why don't they settle for proposals from the collections that are presented on the catwalk? “In the mid-2000s, the interest of the press grew in knowing which designer dressed each celebrity. This led to the designers' name becoming part of the celebrity identity and an important aspect of high-profile events,” reflects the designer. On the other hand, the internet, social networks and the rise of the fan phenomenon force brands and celebrities to always propose and wear something new.
This need for novelty not only affects red carpets, but also concert tours. Just a few years ago it was common for artists to wear the same outfit at each stop on their tours. Now that as soon as they step on stage in one place in the world the images reach the opposite extreme in a matter of seconds, they must also introduce new features at the different stops on their tours.
Since the image is one of continuity, the process is more complex: “Everything must be taken into account. The album, the set, the lighting, the dancers... the costumes have to convey the spirit of the artist. On the Bad Gyal tour, for example, all the looks are custom-made, and they are all gold or silver according to the theme of the album, which is titled La Joia,” explains consultant Alba Melendo, who also works with Karol G and the Italian artist Elodie.
The Catalan singer still has four stops left in Spain, but she has already taken Courrèges or Balestra. “Our biggest project to date was Elodie's tour in Italy, for which we made 69 customs. Behind each one was a personalized inspiration wall for each brand. From them, the firms create sketches or proposals and together we develop the looks.”
These numbers are already dizzying, but as an experienced stylist, Melendo confesses that he orders at least two custom models from each firm because “you have to be prepared for everything. For Karol G's Grammy performance we did four looks with Y/Project, although Carolina only wore three."
