“Our heritage is the sky, and that is something that large urban areas have lost forever.” With this phrase begins the visit to the newly opened San Antón observatory, located in the pilgrim hospital of the same name, one of the most special and magical places in Castrojeriz - a small town halfway between Palencia and Burgos. Its founder, Ovidio Campos, has been welcoming travelers on the Camino de Santiago for more than 20 years in a hostel located in the heart of the ruins of what was once a spectacular Cistercian-style monastery, founded in 1146 by Alfonso VII.
This small town of barely 800 inhabitants, which really has a sky like a movie, has a huge bustle of visitors for much of the year thanks to its privileged position on the French road. In fact, it has the honor of being the town with the longest street through which the pilgrim route passes: more than 1.5 kilometers that cross the municipality from beginning to end. It is precisely its strategic location that has turned this haven of peace, tranquility and starry skies into one of the most coveted places just two and a half hours from Madrid.
In addition to having eight hostels, Castrojeriz is on the outskirts of the historic center one of the places most desired by pilgrims and tourists. This is the Quinta de San Francisco, a boutique hotel that occupies the site of the old convent of San Francisco, whose ruins are already part of the new building, in a perfect integration between the artistic beauty of the history and the comforts of the architecture. modern.
The building exudes a sensitivity for the artistic in every corner, from the drawings and representations hanging in the common spaces to the small poetry books found on all the nightstands. It has 21 rooms, all of them with views of the exterior of gardens that have medicinal plants, flowers of all ranges of colors, orchard areas and fruit trees that give the place an almost paradisiacal appearance.
This sustainable rural hotel has a restaurant that only opens to guests staying in its facilities. It works with products of rigorous proximity - fruits and vegetables from its own garden are one of the essential pillars of its menu - to offer the best recipes of Burgos cuisine. Under the orders of Chef Josefa, the menu changes periodically to offer a different gastronomic experience, whatever the length of the stay.
As it could not be otherwise, in the dining room they have a small wine cellar that does the honors of one of the lands with the best wines in all of Spain. Ribera del Duero and Arlanza, the two appellations of origin of the province, have their respective representatives along with a wide range of wineries from both Castilian territory and the rest of the country.
A haven of peace and tranquility that has been delighting visitors - its owners claim that, in addition to vacation tourists, many pilgrims find here the long-awaited days of rest to recharge their batteries - since it opened its doors in September 2021. In addition, it also offers an exclusive wellness area, equipped with a sauna, Turkish bath, Scottish shower, hydromassage and heated beds. Of course, it is an almost safe bet as it is located in one of the municipalities included in the list of "Most Beautiful Towns in Spain".
The terrace also deserves a special mention, and it has a curious “footbath”. It is a small pool where walkers can soak their feet as soon as they arrive at the hotel and enjoy a precious rest while contemplating the almost two hectares of land on the estate.
The activities available to visitors in the town and its surroundings are for all tastes. You should not leave without visiting the collegiate church of Santa María del Manzano, built on the remains of old proto-Gothic buildings and which has undergone several renovations, especially between the 15th and 18th centuries. You can also take a walk to Castrojeriz Castle, just over two kilometers from the center, and enjoy splendid views of this small hidden treasure in the northeast of the plateau.
