No matter how little you know about the Barcelona art scene, you will know the national and international impact of the Paral·lel and the artists who made it famous, among whom was Bella Dorita, queen of this avenue and of El Molino during the decades of the 40s and 50s. María Yáñez, the woman under that pseudonym, became for many the star of the century. She went on to conquer Montmartre, but in an interview in 2000 in La Contra of this newspaper she confessed that she always preferred the Paral·lel. And in the vicinity of this avenue, almost as close to it as the Sant Antoni market, is this restaurant that pays tribute to her and another Dorita, whose show she performed in the kitchen.
When Ferran, grandson of this “strong, fighter and culinary artist” woman, decided to open a restaurant with his family in honor of his grandmother's recipe book, he was not sure where he was going to locate it. But as soon as he found this space near the Paral·lel and at the same time one of the large Barcelona markets, which allowed him to have a fresh and nearby pantry on the corner, he knew it was the right one. It is a small place, halfway between a winery and a restaurant, modern and cozy, with retro touches, where they have prioritized feeling at home. It is noticeable, above all, in a close and chatty team that enriches the proposal.
Ferran grew up in Lleida and the land, the work of farmers like his parents – so important and which should be highlighted even more these days – and the ingredients from the garden, marked him from a young age. His grandmother took care of him and worked as a switchman, and the stall next to the tracks where he spent many hours became the place to enjoy those delicacies that Dorita made. “He loved to cook, the pantry was the field and the flavors and aromas of the dishes he prepared are unforgettable,” he explains, excited to belong to that group of lucky people with a grandmother or grandfather who is fond of cooking.
It is for this reason that they bet on a quality product and, obviously, with rigorous seasonality, and simple preparations that do not disguise it, but rather highlight it. From the tiny kitchen come succulent preparations such as Catalan broad beans with Iberian ham, potato and onion omelette, chickpeas with crayfish or cheek with red wine sauce. But their specialty is grilled Lleida sausage with ganxet mongetes, as simple as it is splendid.
In addition, the menu of traditional dishes is complemented by an offer of tapas and preserves, such as croquettes (there are chicken and ham, and another that varies every day), banderillas, a selection of fried eggs and charcuterie. That is, precisely, another of their strengths, with products from the family meat company and other local suppliers, which can be purchased right there in the display case they have at the bar and consumed in the restaurant or at home. The wines and desserts also deserve mention, but we'll leave them for next time.
