They always demanded the return of Niño Viejo, the rogue taqueria that for years housed the Hoja Santa restaurant. But the consequences that the pandemic brought about for the El Barri Group establishments caused Albert Adrià and Paco Méndez to have to part ways. The first focused on new projects, such as the ephemeral pop-up of the ADMO restaurant in Paris, together with the renowned French chef Alain Ducasse, and later on the reopening of Enigma; and the second premiered a solo venue (Come) in the space that Hoja Santa had previously occupied.
Since yesterday, master and disciple have joined forces again at Taco Méndez, an ephemeral taqueria that they define as "an experiment" and that reflects in a certain way the essence of Niño Viejo, although with more modest prices on the menu. It will be active until March 10 in the space previously occupied by Bodega 1900, where Albert Adrià planned until a few months ago the opening of Romería together with chef Tonet Romero, an idea that apparently has not come to fruition.
Méndez assures that this pop-up is quite an experiment because with it both chefs want to explore something that, after years dedicated to haute cuisine, has eluded them: a business model in which the quality-pleasure relationship is high without having than raising the price of the bill too much for the diner. "We wanted it to be a fun and affordable concept. For now the restaurant will last a few months, but if it goes well we will see what to do," says the Mexican chef, leaving the doors of Taco Méndez ajar.
For the new opening, they have redecorated the old Bodega 1900 in the purest Mexican style (bright colors, side bars, details reminiscent of an authentic taqueria) and have devised a gastronomic proposal that does not lack some of the iconic dishes of Niño Viejo , such as cochinita pibil tacos, guacamole or Grandma Flor's adobo tacos, which follow Méndez's mother's recipe to the letter.
There are also, in a fairly limited menu since, as we have explained, the idea was to achieve an economically viable business format, new creations in which both chefs have participated; such as fried avocado in macha sauce, poblano quesadillas, chicharrón tacos or fried chicken with guajillo chili.
And, be careful, because among the experiments they are carrying out in the new location includes not accepting reservations. "We don't even have a telephone," says Méndez, adding that they have also opened up to new hours. For this reason, the establishment operates from Wednesday to Friday from 7:00 p.m. to 12:00 a.m. with the intention that their colleagues from the restaurant world can also dine there and, for the first time, they have decided to open on Sundays at noon.
