If it depended on a sad spreadsheet, the restaurant we focus on today would not exist, because it would have been reckless to dare to take the step of taking the reins. Or it wouldn't have been the chef of Barcelona's Coure, Albert Ventura, who would have given it. But this chef explains that if he agreed to start the new Vraba (Moll d'Espanya del Port Vell s/n) it was not because he saw a safe investment, but rather an opportunity to contribute to enriching that port area of Barcelona at a time when The city can once again take advantage of the momentum of an important sporting event. “Why let it go? Why complain instead of making a move? Isn't that fer country?”
The space, open to a huge terrace with views of Port Vell from where we will see one of the sophisticated boats raised for the America's Cup, is located next to the museum dedicated to this competition. This is a concession for two and a half years and we will have to see if it is extended. If not, the financial and work effort that the chef has put in would not disappear. He would have to move.
At the moment Vraba, as it has been called (the dance of kisses and vees is fashionable in restaurant names), is a house that is worth a visit for various reasons, of which we will list some. Because the place reminds us Barcelonans of how lucky we are to have the sea, and because being able to have lunch or dinner on that terrace is a delight in this warm autumn; because if we take a look at the extensive menu (there are many sections, including sushi), we will immediately see that the prices are not designed to justify the location and the views, but to adapt to different budgets (there are dishes from 6, 10, 12 euros that increase if you opt for the sections “With caviar” or “Seafood dishes” ). Also the option of a 50 euro menu.
Another reason, very important, is that those who create these dishes are two of the best Catalan chefs, who have embarked on the adventure because the challenge of the Copa del América has made them relive that illusion of Barcelona in '92 and the spirit of building together (“Friends forever”) and to proudly show the world the city. Because the fact that the owner of Coure, who is evolving in his role as a businessman and who has been able to put into practice his love of interior design (in this case Mediterranean style), has sought out his great friend, the chef of Alkimia and AlKostat , to turn it into a kind of luxury advisor, is a stimulating example of complicity in the kitchen.
“Apart from being my friend, Jordi Vilà is one of the best chefs in the country,” says Ventura. And we don't discuss it. When after trying those dishes in which the style of one or another appears, so similar and so interesting, that here they acquire a casual air (the bikini croquette, the ceviches, the delicious grilled potato with bacon and caviar, the beef tartare with warm bone marrow, the wellintoff steak - a play on words between Wellington and Stroganoff sauce -, we feel that what they offer us is that festive cuisine without excessive pretensions that they themselves enjoy when they share a table. And a Imagine Ventura and Vilà spending countless after-dinner conversations on their days off and pondering this project that undoubtedly adds to a Barcelona that continues to be rich in culinary talent.
And it's all about adding and building, as we see by watching the team in action. To the sommelier Paula Cuenda, trained with Josep Roca; to her right hand, Ernesto Vega, who was her classmate and learned in the paradise of Cala Joncols or to waitresses like Júlia Cordovilla, who already showed her professionalism in Normal, El Celler or Mejorar. We will meet her again later, after visiting the museum dedicated to the regattas. And she will tell us about the desire to experience up close what will happen in this part of the city during the competition. And it is impossible not to see in her smile that of the young people excited about that Olympic Barcelona. And remember how much fun we had.
