Route through the architectural jewels of Reus

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Oliver Thansan
Oliver Thansan
25 January 2024 Thursday 09:56
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Route through the architectural jewels of Reus

* The author is part of the community of readers of La Vanguardia

I write this text after a perfect day to walk the streets of Reus, with some friends who took advantage of our invitation to spend a day with us visiting the highlights of this city that has seen the birth of such illustrious characters as the architect throughout history. universal and genius of modernism, Antoni Gaudí, the painter Marià Fortuny, the sculptor Joan Rebull, the diplomat and scholar Eduard Toda or general Joan Prim, among others.

We all appreciate its modernist heritage, as well as other types of architecture that allowed us to discover some curiosities about the history of Reus.

Our guests were also able to confirm with their visit the long commercial tradition attributed to it and that has allowed it to be designated as a "shopping city."

It is in the historic center where we moved most of the time, where you can find a large number of shops. Some of the establishments are "long-standing" stores and, thanks to the dedication of the owners, they preserve elements of the original furniture.

We start the day with a guided route to discover modernism through a pleasant and easy tour. Without hardly tiring after following the explanations of a guide who for an hour and a half, he revealed to us unique constructions that never cease to surprise every time they are seen.

We start from the Oenological Station, a very well preserved active modernist building. From this route I would highlight the works of the great architect Lluís Domènech y Montaner, such as: the Gasull house (1911), with neoclassical overtones and some windows with their decorated tympanums. The medallions and mosaics on the facades also stand out.

Another gem is the Rull house (1900), which was built by order of Pere Rull y Trilla, the city's notary. It is currently the headquarters of the Cultural Action Institute.

The Navàs house (1908), one of the great treasures of this architectural movement, was the main home and commercial establishment of the Navàs family, wealthy merchants from the flourishing Reus. Starting with the hall, which welcomes the home, to the upper floor you can see countless details: the stained glass windows, the stone work, the furniture, the embroidered tapestries, ceramics, paintings, silk fabrics, blinds, lamps…

Another famous architect was Pere Caselles. The works of the Oenological Station, to which I allude at the beginning of the tour, are attributed to him; the Tarrats y Sagarra house, on Sant Joan street and the Laguna house on Monterols street. These and many others constitute an obligatory stop to continue discovering another great of Reus modernism.

All the buildings we saw are identified with a plaque showing the name of the house, the architect and its date of construction.

We had a good time learning about the most relevant aspects of this art and enjoying a peaceful and instructive walk outdoors. On a next visit, we will continue to see with our friends as many modernist buildings of those 29 that appear on the map that the tourist office provides when you look for information about this type of houses.

Also, we will have to make time to immerse ourselves in a tradition that consists of entering one of the numerous places in the center to try the famous vermouth, an aperitif par excellence in the city.

Continuing with the activity of getting to know Reus better, our proposal was to spend some time visiting some of the most emblematic sites: the Palau Bofarull, the Círcol and the Priory of Sant Pere.

It was disappointing not to be able to enter the Reading Center, a private non-profit entity dedicated to the promotion and dissemination of culture in all its aspects. It was closed, which is why we had to skip the visit to the Bartrina theater and the fabulous library.

In the first of these spaces to which I refer, the Palau Bofarull, specifically in the Salón Noble, there is one of the most important examples of Catalan neoclassical painting. These are paintings alluding to the commerce of the city of Reus and the Bourbon monarchy, among other things. Today this palace houses the School and Conservatory of Music.

The next step was to approach Círcol, a recreational cultural society that is responsible for the development of the political, cultural, commercial and artistic life of the city. Built at the end of the 19th century, it is the most iconic building in Plaza Prim, in the heart of Reus.

And I finish with another emblem of the city, the Prioral of Sant Pere, the main parish dedicated to its patron saint. Built in the 15th century, it is of late Gothic style. Inside is the heart of the painter Fortuny, with the inscription: "Marià Fortuny gave her talent to the world, her soul to God and her heart to her country".

The architect Gaudí was also baptized here. Its bell tower, visible for several kilometers around, is considered an unofficial symbol of the city. You can visit and enjoy an impressive view from the top.

Why not end the chronicle of the one-day tour of Reus with the phrase: "Reus, Paris, London", which refers to the three European markets where the prices of brandy were established in the 18th century and, also, As we were told in the guided tour, to the two hotels located in Plaza Prim, in the heart of the city, the Paris hotel and the London hotel.