Sylvia Westra and Josep Vergés are a couple who share a great hobby: love for the modernist era. Both have always appreciated the art of this movement and visited together all the modernism of Catalonia and other European cities.
The passion for modernism, a mainly artistic and architectural movement of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, in Josep's case was through photography, portraying modernist works on his travels.
Sylvia had this passion since she was little. She lived in Dreta de l'Eixample and there she soaked up that art on a daily basis. Furthermore, some of her friends lived in modernist houses and she was passionate about that. But it was not until two years ago that Sylvia began to consider making her own modernist clothing.
How and when did your interest in making clothes from the modernist era arise?
Making modernist period dresses arose two years ago, the first year I put up with a change of clothes and changed accessories, but I wanted to have more and look better, that prompted me to sign up for sewing classes.
What inspired you to get into this very particular hobby?
It was the creativity that can be achieved. I knew I would have to put in many hours of dedication and perseverance to create my own pieces. But to see the result it is worth it. I had already made the design of my hats and my bags, but it was not enough, my head imagined clothes, and my hand captured it on paper, making a sketch. Mercè Bernades, my teacher, is an exceptional dressmaker-pattern maker, an excellent professional, with my sketch and my measurements, we made the patterns and, from there, creativity skyrocketed with many ideas for their realization.
What are the rarest/unique characteristics of modernist era clothing?
I would say they are: long skirts down to the feet with and without tails, with shirts that cover up to the neck and extend to the cuffs; If they are half-sleeve, the glove size is lengthened. It was vulgar to be dark, beauty was in the whiteness of the skin. For the cold, coats, jackets or capes and shawls were used. Underwear consists of a camisole, bodice, knee-length panties, petticoats and stockings. As accessories to women's clothing, umbrellas, bags, jewelry and hats, headdresses, gloves, fans, shoes or booties
What moment was the most revolutionary of the modernist era?
What was really revolutionary was removing the corset, a real liberation for women. Jeanne Paquin was the first to eliminate them, but the fame went to Paul Poiret. Very normal thing of the time. The woman occupied a second plane, let us remember that without the consent of her husband, a woman could not do anything, only her own work: the house or taking care of the children. When she got married she became the property of her husband. At that time, the woman's opulence in her clothing reflected the wealth of her husband. They were vase women. Especially in marriageable women, transparencies are used a lot, so that they would find suitors soon and marry them.
Do you participate in collective activities related to modernist fashion? Which are?
Yes, we participate in almost all the modernist events held in Catalonia. We can go to other communities where they celebrate it when our work allows us to. In Alcoi, Santander, La Coruña, León, Teruel, Novelda, Benicàssim... And also if the economy and health allow you to travel around Europe enjoying its modernism.
Do you have any historical figures or modernist artists who serve as a source of inspiration for your designs?
I don't have any historical protagonist or specific character that inspires me, but I look for material in books, the internet, series and movies to make a creation inspired by everything I see. Sometimes I combine several details of various garments, which I have seen and like, to reproduce them. I build on what has already been created, recreating a new piece to my liking.
What specific techniques or materials do you use to create your garments?
The basic techniques are maintained in the pattern making, combining the fashionable forms of that time. The materials used are many and very varied, the fabrics that are as suitable as possible, because, today, there are many mixtures of synthetic and natural fabrics. I try to make them as pure as possible, I use a lot of cotton, linen, cold wool, silk, satin, chiffon. In summer, a lot of cotton because it is cool and lately with this climate change, we are dying of heat. People can't imagine what it's like to wear these suits at more than 30 degrees, we have to constantly hydrate ourselves.
I use a lot of lace, lace, satin ribbons and bias binding, guipour, embroidered cotton entredos. For hats, many materials, but feathers, bows, lace, rhinestones, trimmings, crystal, pearls, all imitation prevail; At that time semi-precious and precious stones were used, everything had a place to appear opulent.
Obviously I use jewelry and artificial feathers, I don't want to contribute to the extinction of birds that occurred at that time because of fashion. I really enjoy creating all my hats and the reticules, as the French called the ridiculously large bags that the ladies of the time carried.
What challenges have you faced in recreating fashion from the modernist era?
Phew! Well, all the things and to be had. The first time, due to stage fright, I doubted myself, if I would be capable, if I would be prepared, if I would know how to rise to the occasion. The fear of ridicule creeps in. Fear of exposing yourself publicly. But when you go out with determination to live your experience, that ends. When you see that people congratulate you, compliment you, flatter you, the fear disappears and the character you represent at that moment grows, but there is always an internal pinch before going out to an event, like the actor before going on stage, once inside everything dissolves and you surrender to the experience.
I have faced sewing without having any idea of creating a garment, I only knew how to make some small alterations to clothing, but not how to make it from scratch. Now that I explain all this, I realize how many things I have overcome, putting all my energy into this goal, the will and perseverance in sewing, because... Not everything is a piece of cake.
Are there any modernist garments that you have not made yet but that you would like to make in the future?
There are many, but it would be great for me to make a swimsuit from the period and others from some daily occupation at that time.
What advice would you give to someone who is interested in getting started in making modernist period clothing?
Well, have a lot of patience to make your clothes. Do not set time limits to finish it, nor do it in a hurry, sewing requires many hours of work and many more hours of unstitching, fixing, adjusting, rectifying errors and improving. Look for a good professional who will teach you well, who will help you with all the doubts that arise. There are moments of everything when you learn; If today is a bad day, leave it, do something else, but tomorrow you will get back on track. Consistency and perseverance are very important.
Is modernism in fashion again? We can see in Barcelona, for example, that tourists are increasingly interested in places or buildings with this style, such as the Sagrada Familia, Casa Batlló or La Pedrera.
Yes, modernism has become fashionable again, for three reasons that go hand in hand: tourism, the conservation of historical heritage and the economic gains, which they provide after the large initial outlay for its rehabilitation or restoration. In the 80s, I remember that this architecture was not valued, in the province of Barcelona a lot of heritage was destroyed, looted and sold abroad through speculation. We have lost modernist buildings of incalculable heritage value, because the owners do not receive any type of help for their conservation and maintenance.
In today's fashion we can find accessories that could seem modernist, such as bows, lace, hats... Is it possible that modernist fashion has an important role in current fashion?
Modernist fashion is current in many women's and men's clothing items. I see many blouses with puff sleeves with lace, with embroidery, dresses that are called Ibizan but that were worn by the Indians who had made their fortune in the Americas. The corset is still used to seduce and for sadomasochism, it's ironic right? May the taste for suffering and oppression still continue.
In shoes we continue to use ankle boots, pumps, ballet flats and esparto espadrilles in summer. Men continue to wear tuxedos, cotton shirts with French collars, opera collars, the Italian collar so fashionable in modernism, like ties, bow ties or vests. Maybe the colors, the textures in the fabrics or the compositions and a little the design change.
If you could be a character from the modernist era, which one would you choose?
Well, it's difficult for me to decide. I think I would have liked to be Teresa Amatller i Cros, who was a businesswoman. She ran the family chocolate business. She was a very cultured woman who shared hobbies with her father, such as photography and traveling. She was the founder of the Amatller Institute of Hispanic Art. She was a long-lived woman and lived in a house renovated by Josep Puig i Cadafalch, which is wonderful with service in the house and incredible views of Paseo de Gracia. I think she could have had more freedom than many other women of her time.
Who designed clothes in the modernist era? Did women play any role or was it just a thing for men?
Women sewed, embroidered, and made their own clothes at home, until women began to work in factories twelve hours a day, then all clothing items began to be made to order and then in series. People of high status called the tailor or dressmaker to come to their house to take measurements and make the clothes.
If Gaudí had been a couturier, what do you think the modernist style clothing he would have created would be like?
If Gaudí had been a couturier instead of an architect, he would have had two very marked periods or styles in his youth and adulthood that he would have sought to highlight, opulence, admiration. They say that he was an ambitious man who wanted to rub shoulders with high society and was at their service. And in adulthood he would have looked for clothing with more sober lines, that of the common people, with the modesty of decency, humility, austerity.
How many pieces of modernist clothing have you designed?
This last year I have designed and made three shirts with different sleeve styles with lace and lace. Three skirts of different styles, a cape, a fitted jacket, a pair of petticoats, fourth hats, four different bags combined with the clothes to wear and a summer dress. The year is not over yet, at the moment I am making a velvet ham-sleeved jacket and a skirt for the summer that will go with a vest, now I need to create the shirt, the hat and the bag. Maybe it will all be finished this year. Although... You never know, the time of creation and realization is incalculable.
