The unique English interpretation of certain Spanish dishes is for some an affront on the level of Gibraltar. Although it is surely nothing personal and they apply the concept of gastronomic terrorism with any other country, it is enough to mention the word paella and chorizo for all the alarms to go off. So putting chorizo paella croquettes on sale can be considered almost a declaration of war. Except for two small details: because behind those now famous croquettes is the Catalan chef Nandu Jubany and because the truth is that they are very good.
No, we have not flown to the United Kingdom to be able to taste them in any of the Mark supermarkets
“In Valencia you already know that they are very special about this topic, but in many areas of the country it is not unusual to add chorizo to paella,” Jubany tells us, almost anticipating our question about this conflictive combination.
When the croquettes went viral Nandu Jubany confessed his authorship on the program El món a RAC1. And, as he explains, it was as a result of that intervention and the interest that the product has aroused that he was encouraged to sell them here as well, something that was not foreseen a priori.
Although the idea seems to arise from some perverse mind that wants gastro-diplomatic relations between Spain and the United Kingdom to explode, the reality is much simpler.
The project is a request from Mark
For Jubany, the idea of making paella with chorizo is much more natural than it may seem around here. “In England they know Italian arancini, designed as a way to use leftover risotto, so it is logical to apply the same idea to paella,” he points out. And which one do you like the most? As anyone who has walked through London will know, the one with chorizo, one of the ingredients most associated there with Spanish cuisine.
So after the commotion the idea of also making them for the national market arose. In Ametller they are sold ready to fry, at 5 euros for a pack of 6 croquettes. We prepare them at home and the result is creamy and crunchy croquettes that surprise you at the first bite because, indeed, they taste like paella.
In fact, the touch of fish broth and cuttlefish gains flavor from the chorizo, which has a more discreet presence than we expected in this croquette-made paella. But wasn't chorizo what the English wanted? The explanation is simple: the croquettes sold here are not exactly the same as those sold in the United Kingdom.
They are, explains the chef, similar to the first version that was sent to the team of the British supermarket chain. They, of course, wanted more chorizo and to reduce the level of saffron and fish stock. “The croquettes there are more like rice with chorizo, the ones here are paella,” Jubany summarizes.
The fact is that they are working very well in English lands. So much so that, although the agreement and the initial idea was to have them on sale until February 2024, it is possible that they will stay. In the case of the national market, sales will tell if it is a mere curiosity or if it has a longer history, although according to the chef he does not believe that it is a product to stay for more than a few months.
“The market puts you in your place and makes it very clear if you like them or not, if they sell or not,” he points out. And in restaurants? Smile. Those are big words. In the ones she has in Formentera he does offer his croquettes, but for now she doesn't know if when they reopen in season she will be encouraged to offer these paella dishes there.
In reality, the controversy is taken with a lot of humor. And enough good business vision to take advantage of the momentum and sell these croquettes here as well. “I laugh at all this,” she says when we ask her if she fears that they won't let her enter Valencia.
Jokes aside, he is actually very clear when talking about purism and untouchable recipes. “Spanish cuisine has to travel, and it would be unwise not to adapt our cuisine to the world.” He knows what he's talking about. He has had restaurants in Singapore for years and has discovered that there, for example, rice must be made almost without salt. And a little more spice always works in many dishes.
