The Sultanate of Oman today represents an oasis in the always turbulent region of the Middle East. The only country in the world whose population mostly professes Ibadism (a branch of Islam not affiliated with either Sunnism or Shiism, which advocates tolerance and dialogue), it has become a respected mediator of conflicts. And yet, its past is marked by bloody internal wars and wars against invaders. This is attested to by one of the distinctive features of its landscape: the forts.
Oman has hundreds of them. There are them everywhere: on the coast, in the oases, in the deserts, in the mountains... And the oldest ones date back to at least the 13th century. Visiting these buildings therefore allows you to delve into the history of the country. Here is a tour of six of the most notable.
Located on the shores of the Gulf of Oman, it is one of the best preserved coastal defensive buildings in the country. Its smooth desert sand-colored walls seem suspended in time, despite its four centuries of history. This fort played a crucial role in the future of the sultanate.
The year was 1747 and Oman was mired in war. A civil war overlapped with another against the Persians, who already dominated a large part of the territory. One of the last cities conquered had been Sohar. But its cunning governor, Ahmad bin Said Al Busaidi, was plotting revenge...
At first, it took so long to pay tribute to the victors that the Persian army could not pay its men and many deserted. Then, in a “gesture of good will” to calm things down, the governor invited the troops to a banquet at the Barka fort. He required his guests to leave their weapons at the entrance, out of courtesy. But it was a trick: in that mousetrap, and without possible defense, the Persians were quickly massacred. A bloodbath that is undoubtedly reminiscent of the Red Wedding in Game of Thrones.
Other versions place the massacre not inside the fort but on a ship anchored in front. Be that as it may, this episode marked the beginning of a new Omani dynasty: that of the Al Busaidi, which continues to this day with Sultan Haitham bin Tariq Al Said.
Before the Al Busaidi, the Yaruba ruled, who expelled the Portuguese from the country. In that time of peace and prosperity, at the end of the 17th century, Imam Bel'arab bin Sultan Al Yarubi made Jabrin the capital of Oman and built a luxurious castle-like fortification there. Its three floors house a total of 55 rooms – including a courtroom, a court room, several meeting rooms, reception rooms, classrooms and a library – decorated with trunks, cushions, books and carved ceilings. They are the inheritance of a ruler passionate about science and art.
The jewel in the crown is the Sun and Moon Hall, where the most distinguished visitors were received. The room has 14 windows on two levels to facilitate air circulation and maintain a pleasant temperature. Three enormous eyes are painted on the ceiling that make you feel watched by a kind of Big Brother.
The largest fort of the sultanate was the seat of the Nabhani dynasty, who dominated Oman before the Yaruba and for half a millennium (1154-1624). Built starting in the 13th century, the current structure consists of five floors and has its own mosque. The tallest towers reach 55 meters. The entire area is protected by 13 kilometers of walls, which encompass the Bahla oasis. It is one of the most impressive examples of medieval Islamic architecture.
The raw brick towers and adobe walls on stone foundations, which preserve an enviable appearance, were in poor condition at the end of the 1980s. It was then that the fort entered the list of heritage in danger of the UNESCO and underwent an intense restoration. Today it is on the world heritage register.
Its mammoth cylindrical tower, 43 meters in external diameter, draws powerful attention. In fact, the Nizwa fort has become a national symbol: it is the most visited monument in the country. And it is not only surprising for its dimensions, but also for its interior design. This fortification was a true house of terror for its assailants. False doors, secret wells, narrow stairs, cracks through which boiling date juice could be poured - which remained stuck to the skin -, dark corridors...
Today the old prison, a labyrinth of cells and passages, has been converted into a museum about the history of the facility and the city. Nizwa, the spiritual capital of Oman, was the seat of the Julanda dynasty around the 7th century. However, the fort dates back much later: it was erected at the end of the 17th century under Sultan bin Saif of the Yaruba.
Four double staircases lead to the viewing points of the wall, with splendid views over the city. From the height, you can see the nearby Nizwa souk.
It would seem like a construction half swallowed by the mountain. In fact, rock tips emerge inside. Well, this architectural style, with an irregular floor plan and strange location on rocks or promontories, turns out to be typically Omani.
The history of Nakhl Fort is lost in pre-Islam times. Its origin is therefore unknown; but there are numerous reconstructions, mostly between the 9th and 17th centuries. In 1834 it was expanded with walls, towers and the entrance gate. And in 1990 the venue underwent a complete transformation. Among its former occupants are several imams of the Yaruba dynasty.
The fortification is located at a strategic point that allowed controlling trade routes and protecting an oasis. In fact, the name Nakhl means “palm” and even today the enclosure is surrounded by leafy palm groves visible from its battlements. The fort houses a museum filled with historical weapons and hosts a goat market every Friday.
Its main attractions are the mosque, which is among the first in Islam – accessible only to the faithful – and its four towers: the red tower, the wind tower, the devil's tower and the modern tower (added in 1906). The second and third are works of the aforementioned Sultan bin Saif of the Yaruba, whose tomb is located in the western corner of the enclosure. The fort also preserves the remains of the dynasty's founder, Nasir bin Murshid.
The origins of the construction could be before the 19th century. VII, although over the centuries it grew to its current proportions: about 60 meters by 45, with three floors. It has several residences, an armory, reception rooms, cells and wells. Rustaq was another key city in the history of Oman, capital during part of the Yaruba era and the beginnings of the Al Said dynasty, in the mid-18th century.
