Audemars Piguet and Tamara Ralph unveil a decidedly feminine haute couture watch

Audemars Piguet has done it again.

Oliver Thansan
Oliver Thansan
29 January 2024 Monday 21:28
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Audemars Piguet and Tamara Ralph unveil a decidedly feminine haute couture watch

Audemars Piguet has done it again. The fine watchmaking manufacture begins the year by unveiling a new limited edition, the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon Volante with a woman's name. It is the one presented in collaboration with haute couture designer Tamara Ralph, a piece absolutely faithful to her aesthetic, which exudes unlimited creativity, timeless elegance and, above all, bold femininity. In 18-karat rose gold, this new Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon Volante by Tamara Ralph stands out for its dazzling Frosted Gold effect (an ancient Florentine jewelry technique that was once revisited by jewelry designer Carolina Bucci and adapted by AP artisans in 2016) and adopts an exclusive palette of gradient tones that, from brown and bronze to gold, connect perfectly with the designer's work.

Thus celebrating the natural synergies between haute watchmaking and haute couture and reinforcing the strong ties that Audemars Piguet has been weaving over the years with different creative worlds, this piece is unique. Singular. Of an atypical beauty for which its creator sought to “capture the spirit and craftsmanship of both my brand and AP,” the horological complications orchestrate a base that allows play in terms of textures, colors and designs, allowing the savoir-faire to shine. haute couture faire. It is especially surprising for its multilayer dial formed with four overlapping circular rose gold plates that create a wave effect emanating from the flying tourbillon cage at six o'clock that allows a glimpse of the mechanism that beats inside. And each of the layers presents a different color from brown in the center to bronze in the middle, reaching golden tones towards the end of the dial.

In a show of care for exceptional detail, while the brown and gold colors have been obtained by galvanic treatment, the bronze-tone layer is lacquered. This millimeter work has also been sublimated in the dial finished with a satin finish with sunray motifs continued from the hands to the outside.

Powered by the manually wound caliber 2964, this limited edition watch combines tradition and modernity in a more suggestive way than ever with the flying tourbillon as the main protagonist. This complication, as complicated as it is sophisticated, counteracts the effects of gravity on the precision of the watch. The balance wheel and escapement are mounted in a tiny cage that rotates at the speed of one rotation per minute to prevent the center of gravity from maintaining the same orientation. Unlike the usual tourbillon, the balance cage is only supported from below to reveal the heart of the watch on the dial side, which today is considered a symbol of exceptional watchmaking art since there are very few experts. who have the ability to produce them.

“This watch is the quintessential feminine expression of the flying tourbillon, whose lightness, precision and elegance are mixed with a quality of execution that symbolizes its values,” summarizes Anne-Gaëlle Quinet, Director of Complications at Audemars Piguet.

The Royal Oak Concept was released in 2002 on the occasion of the 30th anniversary of the Royal Oak. For the occasion, Audemars Piguet then launched a limited edition of 150 pieces inspired by concept cars that combined titanium and Alacrite 602 (a light and resistant alloy from the aerodynamic industry) that preserved the characteristic octagonal shape of the Royal Oak bezel, but dared with a massive 44 millimeter case that propelled the watch to new horizons.

Its futuristic aesthetic, and that daring to reveal the advanced manual-winding mechanism while including various innovative functions, allowed it to establish a totally new aesthetic in the fine watchmaking of the 21st century. It gave rise to the birth of an entire collection in 2008 after the launch of the pioneering Royal Oak Carbon Concept Tourbillon and Chronograph and since then it has become a very interesting platform for experimentation and innovation that took its first step into the women's world in 2018. with Audemars Piguet's first flying tourbillon wristwatch. Two 38.5 mm watches in 18-karat white gold highlighted the groundbreaking aesthetics of the collection with a display of brilliant or baguette cut diamonds, a design that in 2021 was reinterpreted with a series of watches that played with diamonds and gemstones. colors.