La Rambla is not just another street in the Catalan capital. It is the artery that takes the pulse of Barcelona life. Its alleys and corners have found their way into the pages of literature and the frames of the big screen. It has been a source of inspiration for great poets such as Federico García Lorca, who spoke of it as “the only street on Earth that he wishes would never end.” The ways to approach its history and its present are also so many that they could never end.
It was built in 1766 and since then it has been presented to locals and visitors as one of the main avenues in Barcelona. Although it is known as La Rambla, the area made up of six sections, some better known, others still capable of surprising even their neighbors, is also often called Las Ramblas.
Here the steps are accompanied by the indisputable smell of daisies, carnations and roses. The florists of La Rambla settled in the 19th century and since then they have managed to ensure that it is always spring here, resisting the challenge even of the low-cost souvenirs that have prevailed in the surroundings.
Following the steps that will lead us to rediscover its history, we begin at its highest section: the Rambla de Canaletes. The Canaletes fountain attracts selfies at this point of the walk. It is known for two aspects: it is the place where the culés celebrate the victories of FC Barcelona and the legend assures that, if you drink its water, you will return.
Although it dates back to the 17th century, the form in which it is currently presented is the work of the architect Pere Falqués and dates back to 1889. Although it is surely the most photographed, it is not the only one. There are up to 16 replicas distributed throughout the city, the location and history of which can be found through the Fonts BCN application designed by the City Council.
At this beginning of the Rambla is located one of the most iconic buildings, an example today of the evolution of capitalist society. It is worth stopping for a few moments to appreciate the façade of the building that once housed the Central Bank and that today, in this succulent commercial hub, houses one of the giants of fast fashion.
The work of architect Enric Sagnier is also testimony to one of the historical episodes that today will sound like a serial phenomenon to many. On May 23, 1981, coinciding with number 23 on the street, 300 hostages were held hostage for 30 hours inside. The robbery resulted in one fatality.
In the section known as the Rambla dels Estudis, in front of the Betlem church, is the palace that reveals the life of the Barcelona gentry of the 18th and 19th centuries. Its façade combines elements of the baroque with influences of neoclassicism of French origin.
It was built in 1774, although its inauguration took place ten years later, and for its construction it was necessary to demolish part of the medieval wall that ran along the current Rambla. The family of the Marquises of Moja lived in the property for a century. Currently, it is the headquarters of the General Directorate of Cultural Heritage of the Department of Culture of the Generalitat of Catalonia.
If delving into the Catalan haute bourgeoisie has whetted your appetite, the solution is just a few meters away, on Petritxol Street. The smell of chocolate, which accompanies the walk, is due to the “farms” and chocolate shops that began to open here in the 17th century. Although more recently opened, the tradition and flavor still endure in places like Dulcinea or Pallaresa, which has been serving churros with chocolate since 1947, or Granja M. Viader, the latter creator of the famous Cacaolat.
When talking about gastronomy and the Rambla, although it is a classic, it is almost mandatory to walk a little further to reach the Boqueria market. Since 1836 its stalls have fed palates - increasingly international - and the eye. Known as the Sant Josep market, it is an example of modernist architecture of the time, although in its early years it was not covered.
It has more than 300 stalls of all kinds spread over an area of more than 2,500 square meters, so the experience at this point on the Rambla is not read, it is walked and savored. It is not surprising that at the beginning of the 21st century it was recognized as the Best Market in the World by the World Market Congress.
As an emblem of art and culture, the Gran Teatre del Liceu is another of the most important landmarks on the Rambla. In its 200 years of history it is synonymous with resistance: it survived a first fire in 1861, destroying both the hall and the stage, two bombs by an anarchist, which killed 20 people, and a second fire in 1994. which completely burned the stage and the auditorium.
It is one of the largest opera theaters in the world and hosts the most important tours. You can also visit its most representative spaces where you can enjoy its architecture in the large room, the foyer and the Hall of Mirrors, as well as the Cercle del Liceu, an exponent of Catalan modernism.
The steps through the main artery of Barcelona are also accompanied by music, and not only because the voice at the Liceu de Montserrat Caballé has crossed all possible borders. At number 97 Rambla is located a business that has been able to resist the noise of more than a century of changes.
Casa Beethoven was already in Barcelona, even before the Sagrada Familia. It raised its shutters in 1880, although by then it was known as Casa Guàrdia, to offer the city scores and music, as reflected in its sign. Its wooden shelves house more than 100,000 sheet music.
