There is only one more repeated phrase than "in Asturias you eat very well": that you eat a lot and cheap. Two true ideas, not always compatible and that, in any case, draw an apparently clear picture for the traveler. Either you bet on well-known restaurants assuming that you will have to pay more, or you want a huge cachopo at a reasonable price. The Tella restaurant, located in the Palacio Luces de Lastre hotel, seeks its space among the first, with an unbeatable location, and a kitchen in which there is no lack of desire, product, and good travel companions.
The dining room with a huge window that looks towards the Sierra del Sueve fits very well with that topic of the incomparable setting. A factor that plays in favor of the Tella restaurant. Not just the views. And we are in a beautiful 16th century Indian palace, in the Colunga council, a few minutes from Lastres.
This small fishing village in eastern Asturias is always mentioned in those typical lists of the most beautiful towns in the country. Being the location of the Doctor Mateo series a few years ago surely also helped put him on the map and increase his fame.
At the end of 2018, the CoolRooms chain took over the property and completely renovated the hotel that already existed, betting on a very gastronomic approach. For a few months now, Francisco Ruiz has been in charge of the entire proposal for this Relais Chateaux, beginning with the Tella restaurant, a fundamental pillar of the project and which, in a way, supports the discourse of the hotel.
Something that is not an easy task either, despite the obvious charms of the place and a stupendous reputation among the locals... As explained by Bruno Veiga, director of Palacio de Luces, in Asturias it is difficult to gain a foothold among the big names for which the public is willing to pay, and the hospitality industry that seeks more quantity than anything else. The average ticket between 50 and 60 euros is a complex space in this territory and that is exactly where Tella moves.
Right now they offer two tasting menus, at 48 euros for the short one (with five passes) and 82 euros for the long one, which includes an appetizer, four starters, meat, fish and two desserts. Ruiz defines his cuisine as artisanal, very attached to the product and the territory. Here that is not optional. And that has to be celebrated.
Also that within this more or less habitual discourse, the chef is looking for his own language, with dishes in which the local flavor is never lacking with its just reinterpretation when appropriate (pickled oysters from the Eo river with edamame cream and apple in textures, grilled leek and scallops on almond porrusalda…). Or simply pairing top quality products well, such as the delicate verdinas (IGP Asturias) with clams and artichokes.
Compared to the signing of a renowned chef or the consultancy on duty, betting on a local chef like Francisco Ruiz is also a declaration of intent. With a long career mainly between Asturias and Barcelona, he served as assistant to Nacho García Canellada -former Tella chef- and for a few months he has taken command and renewed the menu.
The dishes from that first proposal signed by him are the ones we have been able to try. And the truth is that the desire is noticeable. Also clear ideas to explain things that may surprise you, such as salmon trout from the Pyrenees in Asturias: costs, price tag, availability and stability for the tasting menu... In any case, fish from the Lastres fish market is offered on the menu.
It would be surprising if this were not the case, because close contact is maintained with local producers and suppliers. In fact, the hotel itself organizes visits to the fish market, or to the shop and workshop of Teté Costales, the last woman netter - who sews and repairs the nets for fishing boats - remaining in Asturias. The work that is done from the kitchen and management in this regard is remarkable.
The bread is ordered by Miguel Punchal, from whose workshop possibly the best breads in Asturias come out and are present in many great restaurants in the region. Aitor Vega, who knows the variety of Asturian cheeses like few others, handles the gamoneu, stifles the pitu and the casin -among many others- with those who work at the hotel.
Special mention of the Haza anchovies, a small project located a few meters from the hotel -although they will soon move to Lastres, they tell us- that represents the excellence of Asturian canning crafts.
The house also works with Coalla Gourmet, one of the most recognized distributors of wines and gastronomic products in Asturias and which is successful in Madrid. From his hand they propose a wine list where the close references and also the ciders have a remarkable weight and link wonderfully with the discourse of the place.
Products present in the recipes on the Tella menu and also from Las Palmeras, the most informal gastro space and where Francisco Ruiz allows himself to play a little more. With tasty and fun results, such as the Asturian hot dog based on sausage from Avilés, the veal mole with tortilla chips and Asturian beans, or the Iberian ham and shrimp gyozas with sweet cider chilli.
And the cachopo?, we ask half seriously, half jokingly. That it is one thing to question its importance in Asturian cuisine and another to say no to a good cachopo. There was, they tell us. Of normal size, with first-class ingredients and a price that is far from what many visitors expect from this dish.
But let's not talk about cachopos, but about the work that Daniel Diez does in the dessert item, in charge of the sweet part (the Afuega'l Pitu foam with amaretto ice cream and coffee and aniseed financier is very elaborate) and also the pastries which is served at breakfast. Those who consider that, in a certain way, the quality of a hotel and its gastronomic proposal is measured by its breakfasts -we sign up for that- here they can rest easy.
