Tod's, Prada and Karlie Kloss' magazine: the latest changes in the industry's direction

It seems like it was yesterday when we first looked at the Vogue cover of Lauren Sánchez and Jeff Bezos, but judging by the change of record that the publication directed by Anna Wintour has carried out this week, a lifetime has also passed.

Oliver Thansan
Oliver Thansan
16 February 2024 Friday 09:32
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Tod's, Prada and Karlie Kloss' magazine: the latest changes in the industry's direction

It seems like it was yesterday when we first looked at the Vogue cover of Lauren Sánchez and Jeff Bezos, but judging by the change of record that the publication directed by Anna Wintour has carried out this week, a lifetime has also passed. The protagonist of the latest issue is Miuccia Prada, who looks out over the canals of Venice and kiosks around the world, photographed by Steff Mitchell. Although there is no need to justify why a figure like Prada deserves to be on the cover of the most famous fashion magazine in the world, the gesture, which is more a nod to the industry and high fashion Twitter than a commercial claim, shows that it is no longer There is a head office that lives off its sales.

The central theme with the designer is accompanied by a report titled 35 women dressing women, which may seem like a lot, but in relevant positions in this industry (the same one that feeds on selling them cosmetics and clothing) they are still a minority.

The issue of Vogue starring Miuccia Prada will not share newsstands with i-D, the British newspaper that Karlie Kloss bought through the startup Bedford Media from the Vice group last year, which this week announced that it will interrupt its publication temporarily but also indefinitely. until Kloss and his team complete their restructuring or, in other words, until they get their accounts settled.

The day after the announcement of this pause in activity, which affected the print edition and the website but not the media's social networks (who can risk losing followers?), some of its employees made the decision to get off the boat. , including Alastair McKimm, editor of the magazine. Whatever Kloss' plans are, his star editor has not agreed to execute them.

Another company that has announced a change of course in recent days is the Tod's Group (owner of Tod's, Hogan and Roger Vivier among others), which is finalizing its privatization with the help of L Catterton while fueling rumors of an eventual acquisition by the LVMH group. The Della Valle family has always been on good terms with the Arnaults (LVMH has a 10% stake in Tod's and Diego Della Valle has been on LVMH's board of directors since 2002), but the group's delisting from the Italian stock market is will be produced by a private equity firm backed by LVMH (L Catterton will acquire a 36% stake in the Tod's Group) means that many in the industry assume that after that financial boost and after a few years it will be acquired by LVMH.

Tod's paves the way towards privatization to grow without being subject to public scrutiny while Puig completes the opposite journey: the Spanish company, which closed the 2022 fiscal year with 400 million euros in profits and a 40% increase in sales, Belonging entirely to the Puig family, it will place between 25 and 49% of its capital on the market before the summer. This week the multinational has been in the news for the inauguration of a second office tower in L'hospitalet de Llobregat that was attended by Kings Felipe VI and Letizia. The queen wore a Dries Van Noten suit and a Carolina Herrera bag, two of the group's brands.

While some seem to have a clear idea of ​​where they are headed, every piece of news about Farfetch seems to indicate that the luxury e-tailer continues to drift. The latest is that José Neves, its founder and who decided to sell the company to Coupang in December to receive 500 million dollars to save his head and avoid the company's bankruptcy, will change his position as CEO to that of Farfetch consultant. Bom Kin, founder of Coupang, will take over from him. Neves is not the only one who has left the board of directors these days: Tim Stone, its financial director, and Elizabeth von der Goltz, until recently fashion director and head of purchasing at Farfetch and CEO of Browns (owned by Farfetch), They have also announced their respective resignations.

As expected, New York Fashion Week began and ended without making too much noise, although it had an unexpected winner. Luar, the brand of designer Raúl López, experienced the equivalent of winning the lottery when Beyoncé and her mother Tina Knowles sat in its front row without charging. How did they get it? The casting of models included the artist's nephew, Julez Smith. They didn't wear the brand, but they both held Luar bags with determination.