The wine tradition of the Ribera del Duero dates back to time immemorial, the first traces that attest that this was a wine area are from the 4th century BC. Taking advantage of this knowledge, in the seventies, a group of local winemakers created what is one of the most prestigious appellations in the world, the DO Ribera del Duero.
Places like Peñafiel, Aranda de Duero or San Esteban de Gormaz are well known but, in Burgos, there is a small town that almost fell into oblivion and that, a few years ago, managed to put itself back on the tourist map for one of those things worth knowing.
In Moradillo de Roa, called the hobbit village of Spain for its peculiar beauty, the number and location of its wineries stands out. Curiously, it has almost the same wineries (157) as inhabitants (161) and it is something that is still striking, at the same time. Just as peculiar is the place where they are located, in what they call the cotarro, a mound on whose top is the church of San Pedro, and on whose slopes are the underground cellars that, for the most part, still preserve the counters. (booth or picnic area at the entrance to the winery) built in carved stone, very similar to each other, aligned in horizontal and descending streets, which gives it that image of an enchanted town.
In the 15th century, taking advantage of the optimal conditions of the land for the vineyard, they decided to use its particular orography to excavate wineries, winepresses and hundreds of galleries in which to store the wine. The cotarro was an area traditionally for private use where, after a hard day of work in the fields, they would gather idly to eat and drink. In the town all the families have or have had vineyards, and there are a dozen that continue to dedicate themselves professionally to wine.
The cotarro has 18,000 square meters, 157 wineries (positioned on up to four levels) and 7 wineries that exude history. Eight years ago the wineries were in ruins, but after a great effort, they have managed to recover part of their wine heritage and return the splendor to the town and, now, there are about 50 rehabilitated wineries that have been visitable since 2019. On Thursdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays at 12:00 and 5:00 p.m. (it is better to book in advance), a two-hour route through the history of wine making, which includes a tasting of ' El Cotarro', made in the town with the "albillo mayor" grape, a native variety of the area, in addition to the artisan Churra 'Del Vidal' sheep cheese.
If someone decides to spend the night in the town, they can do so at the Casa rural los Girasoles or at the Posada de Moradillo, in both of which it is possible to try lamb roasted in a wood-fired oven. There is no better plan, especially if it is harvest time.
