We live in the era of GPS that guide us, leaving little room for improvisation. It is time for social networks that bring the latest trends to the point of turning them into impersonal uniforms. We are in the era where apps tell what and where to buy, as well as how to get it to your doorstep. Well, none of that works in any Moroccan souk, much less when entering the labyrinthine souks of Marrakech.
Digital disconnection is forced. You have to go back to the sensory and capricious, even if that means getting disoriented. Let no one worry, because all the tourists get lost in the Marrakech souk, and sooner or later everyone leaves that tangle of alleys, shopkeepers, bustle and strong smells. Even those who visit it in the company of a guide end up lost. Even more so, because they also don't know how to get out of there and they also end up buying at the whim of their cicerone, more allied with the locals than with the foreigners thanks to the pertinent commission they earn in each transaction.
In other words, it is much more interesting to enter the souks on your own and, knowing that disorientation is guaranteed, let yourself be carried away by instinct. Perhaps that little adventure will be the best memory of the trip, much more than the souvenirs that will end up in your suitcase. And, at the end of the day, entering the Marrakech souk is done exclusively for one thing: shopping.
For this, it must be very clear that each acquisition must be achieved through the comedy of haggling. Yes, comedy. No matter how much the merchant gestures, even raises his voice, it is his daily life in the theater of life. And today it is his turn to perform in a personalized show for us, the tourist of the moment. So you have to participate in the performance, bringing some joke but also disinterest, complaint, tension, now I'm leaving but I'm staying... until in the end a figure is agreed upon. An amount that the seller will have had in mind from the first moment. Let no one think otherwise.
To make these purchases you must follow two basic rules. As basic as being respectful and having common sense. Furthermore, before engaging in negotiations, it is advisable to investigate until you find the desired object, although without showing too much passion. And much better if you choose merchants with easy smiles, since haggling with bad-tempered ones will be impractical. Once these issues are clear, the only thing left to do is dive into your peculiar shopping. By the way, if someone is wondering about the language, this is the least of the problems in understanding the sellers. They dominate our language, and they will even surprise us with some football or gastronomic joke.
There are multiple ways to enter the souks, but surely the most appropriate is from Djemaa el Fna square. The great square of Marrakech and this entire area of the world. The place that once welcomed the camel caravans that had crossed the Sahara from Timbuktu. This square has its aura of legend and water carriers and orange juice stalls continue to congregate to quench the thirst of travelers. But also waiting in Djemaa el Fna are henna tattoo artists, dentists who show their pliers and extracted teeth to globetrotters, flutists capable of charming cobras that dance next to them, or monkey tamers, with whom you have to be more careful than with the snakes.
All this during the day, but as the afternoon progresses the square fills with grilled food stalls and characters who offer entertainment to foreigners: jugglers, storytellers, palmists, musicians... as well as the occasional pickpocket. It is not surprising that Djemaa el Fna is declared intangible cultural heritage of humanity. But to enjoy it, it is better in the afternoon and early evening. While the morning was dedicated to the souks.
Leaving behind the spaciousness of the square, the landscape suddenly narrows and the streets become narrow passages in which one store follows another. The narrowness is accentuated by the merchandise displayed outside the premises with sellers sitting by the doors to chat, smoke and drink tea with their neighbors. But above all to attract tourists who necessarily move at a slow pace amidst so many obstacles and so many attractions.
The first feeling is of overwhelm. Although you soon get used to the voices, the aromas and the intense colors of the products for sale, so you continue moving forward aimlessly and with a certain feeling of chaos. But on the other hand, in all that conglomeration of alleys, covered passages, small squares or dead-end streets, at least apparently, there is an order. In fact, there are several souks in Marrakech, each with its specialty.
For example, there is the leather souk. One of the most colorful and smelly. There are plenty of slippers, belts and bags there. There is a lot of high-quality, artisanal products, but not everything is authentic. So you have to know how to search and, as always, bargain. Essential! The first price is always exorbitant. The same thing happens in the carpet souk, which hides real treasures. But here the negotiation is always long, so it is generally accompanied by a mint tea to spend a pleasant time watching textile wonders.
Two other very striking and colorful souks are the lamp souk and the blacksmith souk. In both you can see how many shopkeepers take advantage of the time to make pieces in stores that are part of the same workshop. But they will not hesitate to put aside hammers, chisels and pliers to negotiate with any tourist interested in their art. And they will also drop their tools to reproach rude onlookers who start photographing them or their merchandise without asking permission. Don't be surprised if they ask for money for it!
The souks' offerings do not end with decorative objects and crafts. There are also areas for feeding. Depending on what time you visit the olive souk, you are guaranteed to snack on something from those pyramids of pickles. But you have to ask to taste them first, because some are true spicy bombs, as they are seasoned with condiments, herbs and peppers from a nearby souk: the spice souk.
It has no loss. The sense of smell guides you to the souk that smells the best. Mint, cinnamon, cumin, saffron, even the sought-after argan oil, all are trickster fragrances. If you have to take something from Marrakech, it is here. It is good to look for a position where you can see yourself buying something local. It will be the best place to buy ras el hanout, a cocktail of spices that season tagines, couscous, rice or vegetables. The mixture varies from one seller to another, but they always grind it on the spot to fill a bag that will be the best guarantee of savoring the trip to Morocco again once you get home.
