There was a time when Spanish was spoken in northern Taiwan. The ships called at Cape Santiago or left from the port of Santísima Trinidad. The waters could be seen from the fort of San Salvador and the currency was the real. Although it was a brief period, it would certainly end up leaving its mark. Currently, its most visible testimony is found in the city of Tamsui, where there are still inhabitants whose mother tongue is Spanish. But before entering its streets, let's take a short historical tour.
At the beginning of May 1626, a Spanish flotilla from the Philippines landed at the northern end of what was then called Isla Hermosa, with the mission of conquering it. The presence of the Dutch in the southern tip threatened the trade route between the Spanish colony of Manila and Chinese merchants. The first forts were established and cities were founded. Among which, San Salvador, in current Tamsui.
Although the threat was not neutralized – for the moment, the Dutch continued to control the south and the Spanish forces the north – the situation was taken advantage of to proselytize among the local population. The Dominican order, promoter of the expedition, achieved the conversion of about five thousand faithful. In any case, the conflict between both powers would not take long to break out.
In 1630 there was a first Dutch naval attack, which was repulsed but not without costs for the Spanish colonists. When they lost one of the supply ships, they were forced to look for supplies in the interior of the island, which caused an uprising among the indigenous population. The rebels destroyed the fort of Santo Domingo, in San Salvador, killing half of its defenders.
The Spanish position was increasingly weakened. In addition to attacks by the Aborigines and the Dutch, they suffered the effects of typhoons and epidemics. San Salvador would be abandoned in 1638.
Shortly after, in 1641, there would be a gentlemanly exchange of letters between the Dutch governor, Paulus Traudenius, and his Spanish counterpart, Gonzalo Portillo. The first urged his excellency to surrender: “If he pretends to be deaf to this order,” he warned, “there will be no other remedy but to resort to arms.” To which the second replied: “I pray that you do not take the trouble of writing me more letters of the same tenor.”
The subsequent Dutch attack put an end, this time, to the Spanish presence on Isla Hermosa. The withdrawal was completed in 1642. The occupation had lasted 16 years.
Today Tamsui has become an active city of more than 200,000 inhabitants, whose most characteristic monument is the Santo Domingo fort, at the top of a hill. Nothing to do, however, with the wooden fortress that the Spanish built in the 17th century and that was demolished twice: first at the hands of the indigenous people and then by the settlers themselves, when they abandoned the post.
The fort most closely resembles the construction built on its foundations by settlers from the Netherlands in 1644 (they renamed it Fort Antonio, in honor of the governor-general of the Dutch East Indies Anthony van Diemen) and which was renovated in 1724 after the conquest of the Qing dynasty (at which time it was renamed the Red-Headed Fortress, in memory of its northern European occupants). Over the years, the venue would expand.
Now, in front of its red brick façade, a long line of flags flutters. Along with those of Spain, the Netherlands and the Qing, we see those of the United Kingdom, Japan, Australia and the United States: countries that successively occupied the building as diplomatic headquarters or various institutions. The Santo Domingo Fort (now recovered to its original name and protected as a national historic site of Taiwan) can be visited for a modest entrance fee of €2.30. Its rooms retain the Victorian decoration from when they were the home of the British consul.
A stone's throw from the fort is another historic building: the Aletheia University. Its original name was Oxford College, although not in reference to the prestigious English center but to that of Ontario, in Canada. In fact, it was founded in 1882 by Canadian doctor George Leslie Mackay. A Presbyterian missionary, he is a key figure in the history of Tamsui. Busts of him can be found throughout the city center.
In addition to Aletheia University – the oldest center of higher education in Taiwan – he was also responsible for the Hobe Mackay Hospital – the island's first western hospital – and the ornate Tamsui Presbyterian Church.
But without a doubt, one of the greatest pleasures for tourists is walking along Tamsui Old Street, bordering the Tamsui River, among the locals. It is one of the liveliest streets in the city at any time, thanks to a varied offer of cafes, restaurants, shops and stalls. Another essential place is the Fisherman's Wharf, from where you can enjoy beautiful sunsets over the Taiwan Strait.
There stands one of the new symbols of the city: the Lovers' Bridge, inaugurated on Valentine's Day 2003. A stylized white structure, 196 meters long, which at dusk is illuminated with changing colored lights.
