Wrinkles, spots, loss of firmness and elasticity... Inevitably, the passage of time leaves marks on the skin, and the range of products to erase or conceal them is overwhelming. In recent years, retinol has been incorporated into anti-aging creams as one of their star ingredients. But is it as powerful and promising as they tell us?
Retinol, retinal and retinoic acid are forms of vitamin A that naturally integrate the skin and help maintain its barrier function. Due to its low molecular weight, the former penetrates deep layers of the skin after its topical administration, which increases its effectiveness compared to other ingredients in the fight against skin aging.
Our protagonist acts on different chemical processes in the skin, delaying and even reversing the effects of aging and photoaging. Firstly, it stimulates the synthesis of collagen and elastin, proteins that provide support. These are essential for maintaining the shape of the face and the elasticity of the skin, which deteriorate over time. The result is a smoother, firmer and more elastic complexion.
Retinol also has an effect on spots caused by the sun, acting on melanin accumulations. In addition, its antioxidant properties help fight against the effects of free radicals of endogenous and, above all, exogenous origin, such as pollution, radiation, chemical substances, etc. And finally, it participates in the regulation of sebaceous secretion and keratinization of the epidermis.
In short, incorporating retinol into the beauty routine leads to the reduction of fine wrinkles, as well as the unification of the texture and tone of the skin, the regulation of sebaceous secretion and an improvement in the general appearance. All this contributes to our skin having a luminous and youthful appearance.
However, like other beauty treatments, this compound is not free from producing adverse reactions. The application of retinoids to the skin often causes local irritation that manifests itself with erythema – redness, inflammation and itching – and peeling of the stratum corneum, due to increased dryness. The most sensitive areas, such as the area around the mouth and eyes, are more prone to suffering from this irritant dermatitis, which can be painful. In its favor we must say, however, that it does not usually cause allergic reactions or skin sensitization.
Adverse effects are also related to the amount of retinol applied. That is why it is advisable to get the skin used to it, exposing it to this substance gradually (retinization pattern). We can start by administering the lowest concentration and increase it little by little. Or remove the product after one or two hours for the first applications and progressively lengthen the exposure time. Furthermore, it is not advisable to start a routine with retinol during the summer season.
For all these reasons, special caution is recommended in people with sensitive skin or at special moments in life such as pregnancy and breastfeeding, when the skin is sensitized. Additionally, it has been observed that retinol and other retinoic derivatives are teratogenic (produce malformations in the embryo or fetus) at high concentrations.
Are there better alternatives on the market? Yes, there is a clear candidate: bakuchiol, considered by many the new “anti-aging superhero.” It meets the pillar of scientific evidence that pharmacists seek and lacks the adverse effects and precautions that retinol requires.
Although it does not structurally resemble retinoids, this brand-new compound may function as a functional analogue of retinol. Clinical trials indicate that both bakuchiol and retinol significantly reduce wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, without many differences between them. The only distinction researchers have found is the presence of more peeling, dryness, and irritation in people who used retinol.
A study conducted by Dr. Zoe Draelos reveals that 1% bakuchiol solution is well tolerated and effective in people with sensitive skin, eczema, rosacea, and cosmetic intolerance syndrome.
Among its demonstrated effects, the following are worth highlighting: it synthesizes and prevents the degradation of collagen and elastin; reduces wrinkles; prevents aging; improves skin firmness; stimulates aquaporins, proteins that enhance hydration; it is antioxidant and anti-inflammatory; improves melanin synthesis, minimizing irregular pigmentation; and reduces 5-alpha-reductase, the enzyme that transforms free testosterone into dihydrotestosterone (DHT) and may be responsible for many cases of acne.
And if that were not enough, it can be administered during pregnancy and breastfeeding and is not photosensitizing or photosensitive. This allows you to start using it at any time of the year, during the day and without needing to accustom the skin to its tolerance.
So, do we give bakuchiol a chance?
This article was originally published on The Conversation. Marta González Álvarez is the director of the Master of Dermopharmacy and Cosmetics UMH, Miguel Hernández University. Blanca Llácer and Estefanía Hurtado are professors of this same Master. Isabel González-Álvarez is also a professor of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Technology in the Engineering Department of the same university. María del Val Bermejo is a Professor in the area of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Technology at the same center.
