Custo: “The physical catwalk is my school”

New York Fashion Week is halfway through after, among other names, proposals from designers such as Christian Siriano and Ralph Lauren were shown on Friday, or on Saturday new collections from creators such as Proenza Schouler and the Spaniards Palomo Spain and Custo Barcelona.

Oliver Thansan
Oliver Thansan
10 September 2023 Sunday 10:32
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Custo: “The physical catwalk is my school”

New York Fashion Week is halfway through after, among other names, proposals from designers such as Christian Siriano and Ralph Lauren were shown on Friday, or on Saturday new collections from creators such as Proenza Schouler and the Spaniards Palomo Spain and Custo Barcelona. For the Catalan designer, New York is a second home and its international catwalk is a space to exploit his creativity. Despite the 51 shows that he has done there, the designer openly states that it is thanks to the catwalk that he can continue learning. “The physical catwalk has always been my school. Maybe for today's generations other scenarios are the same, such as social networks, but as a brand I have evolved on the physical catwalk, not only for its projection capacity but also as a laboratory for my creative work," explained the designer. a few hours before presenting his spring/summer 2024 Objects of Desire collection in New York.

His is a love story with the city that has seen him grow as a fashion designer and that shortly after taking his first steps in the industry, before he conquered the closets of half the world with his colorful t-shirts with a retro aesthetic, he decided for the avant-garde style of his designs and catapulted him to the international scale. “New York has helped us a lot, and that is why it is a very special event of the year, very emotional and at the same time gives us respect,” says the 64-year-old creative.

In this edition of the New York catwalk, Custo has investigated the feeling of desire in the fashion industry. Thus, his line for next summer is titled Objects of Desire and he focuses all his attention on the caftans. "We have sought to design pieces that achieve this seductive effect and accentuate the individuality of each person," he explains about the fifty pieces that are part of the collection that he presented yesterday in an illuminated studio located a few meters from the Hudson River, and that will soon will arrive on the Madrid catwalk with some new features.

Beyond the great novelty of the kaftans, where the creative wanted to investigate in depth about its possibilities in cuts and shades, Custo recognizes that the dress is the great hallmark of the firm and therefore has a fundamental role in this line. . Fitted, long, short, oversized. A range of possibilities for the optimistic and daring woman who seeks to differentiate herself.

In shades and textures, as is usual in the vibrant Custo Barcelona collections, the collection opts for a warm palette, with oranges, fuchsia, pink and yellow, but also turquoise as a counterpoint and white as a joining tone. Colors that add shine, such as gold and silver, are also inherent features in the Custo Barcelona universe.

After the explosion of colors and creativity of Custo Barcelona, ​​today it's time to slow down with the minimalism of Michael Kors and the excess of elegance of Altuzarra, and tomorrow, the Spanish accent will once again be one of the highlights of the day with the also legendary Carolina Herrera.