Big party for the 25 years of San Sebastián Gastronomika

25 years ago, the debate space, meeting point and reference place for chefs from all over the world was born in San Sebastián in which to discuss, present and weave the history of the gastronomic avant-garde of the last quarter of a century.

Oliver Thansan
Oliver Thansan
08 October 2023 Sunday 16:23
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Big party for the 25 years of San Sebastián Gastronomika

25 years ago, the debate space, meeting point and reference place for chefs from all over the world was born in San Sebastián in which to discuss, present and weave the history of the gastronomic avant-garde of the last quarter of a century. It was one of the first major culinary congresses (the same year, in 1999, the Fòrum Gastronòmic was born in Vic) and also one of the first to apply to cooking the criteria that governed other disciplines. San Sebastián Gastronomika tried to make it understood that shared knowledge assists growth and not rivalry, and this year it celebrates its silver anniversary with the help of great chefs on the national and international scene to continue writing history with a look to the future.

The influential culinary congress brings together the most famous names in Spanish cuisine in its 25th edition. From today until Wednesday, Joan Roca, José Andrés, Ricard Camarena, Ángel León, Quique Dacosta, Maca de Castro, Paco Morales, Rodrigo de la Calle, Diego Guerrero, Javier Olleros or Begoña Rodrigo will pass through the San Sebastian capital. The list continues with the chefs of the Enjoy and Share restaurants, Eduard Xatruch, Oriol Castro and Mateu Casañas (who have just received their National Gastronomy Award), Albert Adrià and his brother, Ferran Adrià, who will receive the Tribute award for being a pioneer and rewrite the story of gastronomy.

They will be accompanied by some of the great international figures: René Redzepi (who will give one of his last presentations after the announced closure of his restaurant Noma), the also Danish Rasmus Munk (Alchemist), the Colombian Leonor Espinosa (Leo, Bogotà), the Brazilian Alex Atala (D.O.M., São Paulo), Japanese Yoshihiro Narisawa (Narisawa, Tokyo) and American Matthew Lightner (Okta, Oregon), among others.

All of them will be supported by the Basques Andoni Luis Aduriz (Mugaritz), Eneko Atxa (Azurmendi), Pedro Subijana (Akelarre), Elena Arzak (Arzak) or Josean Alija (Nerua), who will play at home. The young people Gorka Rico and Javi Rivero, who won the Newcomer Chef award in the last edition of Madrid Fusión, will also not miss the event.

Three vibrant and intense days in which the congress participants (more than 1,300 last year) will review the last 25 years of congress and the history of gastronomy and take a look at the future of cuisine through experience and wisdom from renowned chefs around the world.

The congress starts today with some of the most prominent faces in the sector. Joan Roca, Quique Dacosta and Benjamin Lana will open the day with the presentation of The Book of the Red Prawn (Planeta), an encyclopedic work on one of the most important and emblematic products of Spanish gastronomy. Then it will be the turn of René Redzepi, the father of new Nordic cuisine and three Michelin stars, who will explain his personal journey to his current conception of the profession. Redzepi will address the transformation that he will undergo to his restaurant, after its announced closure, as well as the launch of Noma Projects.

The Golden Gueridón that recognizes the work of the room and wine professionals will also be awarded to Jancis Robinson; and the Pau Albornà i Torras award for gastronomic journalism will go to the critic Rafael García Santos. In the afternoon it will be the turn of the chefs from Mejorar (second best restaurant in the world on The World's 50 Best list), and the overwhelming day will conclude with interventions by Rodrigo de la Calle, Paco Morales, Albert Adrià and Eneko Atxa.

On Tuesday, the main course will be the memory of Hilario Arbelaitz and his Zuberoa, the restaurant that closed last December after 53 years of culinary experience. The chefs who learned alongside the Basque chef will review the legacy of this emblematic establishment that became a reference in world gastronomy. The already famous Russian salad or apple pie competitions and championships will also return to the congress.

Likewise, on the second day of San Sebastián Gastronomika there will be a review of the experiences and knowledge of chefs from all over the world, from Japan, led by Masuhiro Yamamoto and Yoshihiro Narisawa, to Denmark, through Alchemist chef Rasmus Munk , passing through Italy with Viviana Varese. All this without forgetting the experiences of national chefs such as José Andrés, Elena Arzak, Javier Olleros, Pedro Subijana or Ángel León (Aponiente, Cádiz), who has announced that he will present a new marine ingredient.

The last day, on Wednesday, will close in style with the presentation on acidity by Begoña Rodrigo, one on legumes in the kitchen of Casa Marcial that will be offered by Nacho Manzano or the Pozoneros talk, in which the chef Leo Espinosa will talk about the project Artistic District of the Cartagena neighborhood of El Pozón, which, from its gastronomic model, holistically integrates cuisine, science, ecology and art. The final icing on the cake will be Ricard Camarena and Alex Atala in a four-handed presentation that will link the Amazon with the Mediterranean.

To this program we must add the activities that will be carried out in parallel, such as competitions, round tables, workshops, tastings, and more, to celebrate the 25 years of San Sebastián Gastronomika and highlight the importance of the craft.