Good morning from Florence, the city that sees how its until now male overpopulation is decimated in favor of that of Milan, where its fashion week begins today after four days of Pitti Immagine Uomo, the most famous men's fashion fair in the world.
The Florentine event has a particular relevance because, although in Italy it has never been difficult to talk about the part of fashion that is not art but business, this is a fair and here we come to discuss sales: what will work, what won't. , which brands will be in the best stores and which are outdated.
Pitti Uomo is attended by everyone from Diego Della Valle to Suzy Menkes, including buyers, editors and opinion leaders. Most are men and most dress for the occasion.
What have those whose mission is to guess and decide what you will wear next winter? Tailored coats cut to the millimeter, leather (not always synthetic) and impeccable shoes. The Fortalezza da Basso is a catwalk of the best clothes of its attendees and a showcase of what the 832 brands that present new products here have in their plans for Autumn-Winter 2024.
Each one with its own proposal, the common point is that this entire industry shows a desire to move forward. From well-known and established brands such as Herno (famous for its coats and fabrics), which has presented a complete wardrobe, or Tod's, which has taken advantage of the fact that everyone was in Florence to unveil a long-term collaboration with Lamborghini; passing through Achilles Ion Gabriel, creative director of Camper, who has chosen Pitti to celebrate the first fashion show for his own brand. The Finnish designer's genderless proposal was marked by oversized tailored garments and the manipulation of fabrics in the form of folds, wrinkles, tears and fades.
The fair revolves around commerce, but Pitti has also managed to become a platform for talent. In each of its two annual editions, a series of guest designers present their collections here, made in collaboration with artisans and manufacturers from Italy. A way for the past to shake hands with the future, and for creators who are just starting out to have access to suppliers that, without Pitti's hand, they would not be able to use.
“It has been a constant coming and going,” commented the London-based Liverpool designer Steven Stokey Daley about the process of developing his collection at the press screening prior to his show. Daley, who was awarded the LVMH Prize in 2022, transformed the Salone dei Cinquecento of the Palazzo Vechio into the bedroom of an Oxford student residence on Thursday to tell a story of self-discovery.
In his Elliot's Room we saw more complex versions of the knitwear popularized by Harry Styles, sailor coats trimmed with classic dressing gowns and Mary Janes. We also saw an essay on the institutionalization of intimacy that continues its discourse on the differences between social classes in the United Kingdom, and we experienced a return to the past, “to the time before things got better,” because those were times of hope.
A day before, Luca Magliano returned home (like Ion Gabriel, the Milanese debuted here five years ago) to talk about politics and sexual diversity through a review of the classics, to reflect on what can be considered traditional today. One of the best things about Pitti Uomo is seeing the most powerful men in the industry sit in the front row of designer shows with disruptive speeches.
From the other side of the pond came Todd Snyder, who was in charge of opening this edition on Tuesday with an enthusiasm that made the more than 30 years he has been working as a designer not noticeable. Snyder went through Ralph Lauren and J.Crew before creating his own brand twelve years ago, which in 2023 had a turnover of more than $100 million and with which he plans to make the leap to Europe in the short term. “We sell more than two million dollars here,” he commented after the parade. “It is a market with a lot of potential.” The designer is also the creative director of Woolrich, and it was that proposal with a mountain aesthetic that opened a show that ended with a particular tribute to Italian tailoring.
Beyond these borders, in recent days, Bernard Arnault has added a new chapter to LVMH's eternal Succession by appointing his son Frédéric, the second youngest, as CEO of the group's watch division. Until now, and since 2020, the 29-year-old executive had held the position of CEO at Tag Heuer. From this moment on, he will also supervise Hublot and Zenith, while reporting to Stéphane Bianchi, CEO of watches and jewelry of the group.
At a time when sales of luxury clothing and accessories require a greater effort for consumers than is reflected in label prices, it makes sense to reinforce that part of the business dedicated to goods that, due to their characteristics, do not lose value. over time.
Saint Laurent has gone viral with its latest campaign starring Diana Ross, and Bella Hadid has officially returned (should we start interpreting paparazzi photos as official gestures?) with five Perfect Magazine covers, from an editorial in who has also served as art director.
