Mature women are in fashion: the supermodels of the nineties are walking the catwalks again, Kate Moss has already turned 50, and showing off her gray hair has ceased to be the exclusive territory of stylish art gallery owners since the pandemic. Talking about menopause is no longer taboo to be the protagonist of actions and debates that address it in terms of well-being and, yes, also to be the protagonist of many cosmetic innovations focused on taking better care of skin that loses 30% in the five years after its arrival. of collagen.
Boomers are approaching retirement wanting to take care of themselves, show off their good looks, and have an active life. They are the drivers of 60% of cosmetic sales. Because after years of flirting with millennials and Zetas, the sector has done the math and has seen that the purchasing power of the Silver Generation is multiplied by nine than that of the millennials. And, if we add to this that, according to data provided by Shiseido, in 2030 one in six people will be over 60 years old, the good prospects of anti-aging lines (or well aging, according to the new terminology) that are growing at 8% annually and are expected to maintain this pace in the coming years.
The good thing about this power is that mature women are no longer expected to embark on a mad race to defy the calendar to try to be someone they are not. The days when products for them were advertised by thirty-somethings or even younger girls are not so far away. Today their role models sport gray hair, if they want, which is not mandatory, and very well-cared traces of age. The aim is to make the most of the skin's potential with tailored care that helps it confront sagging and loss of density and luminosity, some of its challenges. There are also products inspired by aesthetic medicine – with hyaluronic acid fillers and neuromodulators (commonly known as Botox) – that go directly to the wrinkle with the aim of filling it in without injections or punctures.
Shiseido's message comes through loud and clear: life doesn't end at 50 or 60, and neither does beauty, even if it presents specific problems. In addition to the loss of collagen and firmness, microcirculation decreases drastically after the age of 60, as does the oxygen saturation of hemoglobin, which makes the blood darker and the skin look less transparent and luminous.
Facial muscles are also the focus of new well aging treatments, which offer massages and exercises inspired by facial yoga to take advantage of the creams. With age, muscle mass decreases (up to 30% between ages 50 and 80). And after the age of 50, muscles reduce their strength by up to 15% every decade. The loss and weakening of muscles visibly impacts facial structure, resulting in a significant decrease in the definition of facial features. The potential is there but, like almost everything in life, it takes work.
The new Vital Perfection Concentrated Supreme Cream is designed for mature skin and acts on the four physiological mechanisms – muscular, vascular, dermal and nervous system – involved in its aging symptoms. Its mission: lift and sculpt the face, restore skin density and enhance luminosity.
*Your weapon: Mogami safflower, a flower popular in the traditional Japanese pharmacopoeia for its antioxidant and circulatory properties, from which an extract is obtained to create an active ingredient that nourishes and oxygenates the skin tissue and slows down the development of signs of aging.
Botulinum toxin (the favorite of thirtysomethings), and hyaluronic acid fillers are on the podium of the most requested aesthetic medicine treatments. According to Filorga, in 2022, more than 600,000 aesthetic treatments were performed, of which more than 40% were from neuromodelers (botulinum toxin), the true kings when it comes to erasing expression wrinkles, although lately it has been appreciated that their results last. less time than estimated. To complement the treatment, prolong its results, or as an alternative for those who do not want punctures, cosmetics offers products that go directly to the wrinkle to minimize it.
After the age of 30, expression wrinkles appear on the forehead, between the eyebrows, crow's feet around the eyes, the bar code between the upper lip and nose and puppet wrinkles at the corners of the mouth. A whole catalog resulting from the repeated contraction of the muscles when smiling or frowning. When the skin is young, after a contraction it returns to its initial state, but with age, the skin is less elastic and wrinkles remain marked.
Time-Filler Shot 5XP focuses on them, Filorga's new concentrated serum with a very successful motto: catch your wrinkles, not your expressions. It is applied directly to wrinkles with a metal applicator that allows for maximum precision.
*Its secret: a duo of peptides (small chains of amino acids), which reduce the intensity of muscle contractions.
The “wrinkle is beautiful” thing that Adolfo Domínguez applied in fashion seems to be more difficult to accept in beauty. According to data provided by Dior, one in three people in the world resorts to aesthetic treatment before the age of 40 (50% in China do so before the age of 25).
Preventing, delaying or correcting the signs of aging, in the case of the Silver Generation, continues to be the watchword, although they aspire to be more natural and less demanding. When we speak openly about the aesthetic footprint due to the amount of fillers that skin can accumulate by the time it reaches 50 (not everything is reabsorbed), the cosmetic option, without achieving the same results, is revalued with new formulas. Dior's latest well aging is inspired by hyaluronic acid injections and even its fine and precise applicator is reminiscent of them.
Naturally present in the body, with age its synthesis plummets – 75% in 30 years, say Dior experts – and dehydration and wrinkles gain ground. The formula of Capture Totale Hyalushot combines two high and low molecular weight hyaluronic acids; multifermented longoza extract that improves the anchoring of stem cells and plant polymers to achieve a filling and tightening effect.
“Gray is beautiful when worn with pride and confidence,” says hairstylist Isaac Salido. They are fashionable and claim the right to age publicly from empowerment and respect for one's own identity. They look great on Andie McDowell and Carolina de Monaco. More and more women choose to escape the slavery of dye, but we must be clear that between coloring and that beautiful silvery gray hair that some sport, we must go through the toll of a transition that lasts months and is not easy to bear.
Highlights, highlights that mix with white hair, gray blending, bleaching for the impatient... The first thing is to put yourself in the hands of a professional who will analyze our hair and advise the best procedure to follow in each case, because the transition is easier on light hair. .
When should you consider letting your gray hair show? “When coloring is an ordeal and there is at least 50% gray hair. The more gray hair the better,” says Isaac Salido. His solution to speed up the transition – no one can take four months away from you – is “a good cut, with a messy effect that hides the roots. With gray hair you can achieve incredible looks,” he says. For him, highlights are not always the great ally of the transition: “I believe that the final result does not work, that the highlight turns silver is impossible. After two washes the yellow starts to come out,” he warns. “In the end, the hair suffers and you will end up cutting it,” he predicts.
Color in makeup and well-chosen accessories – glasses and necklaces add up – provide the extra point of style that makes gray hair modern without adding years to it.
