The wine of the week: Louis Latour 1er Cru Contrôlée Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts 2020

From its origin on the hill of Corton, the Louis Latour winery observes its more than two centuries of history linked to Burgundy.

Oliver Thansan
Oliver Thansan
04 November 2023 Saturday 04:28
11 Reads
The wine of the week: Louis Latour 1er Cru Contrôlée Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts 2020

From its origin on the hill of Corton, the Louis Latour winery observes its more than two centuries of history linked to Burgundy. Three villages, Aloxe-Corton, Ladoix-Serrigny and Pernand-Vergelesses, make up the vineyards located on the gentle slope of the Montagne de Corton, forming a beautiful amphitheater at the northern end of the Côte de Beaune. Founded in 1797, the Latour house is proud to remain a completely independent and family-owned company. The vineyard is made up of some exceptional appellations of origin. They state that “each vintage offers wines recognized for their great quality. The wines of the property, as well as those of the associated winegrowers, are deeply characterized by their origin and are vinified and aged with care, respecting the style of a house that unites tradition, elegance and subtlety.” Louis Latour's heart lies in Aloxe-Corton, where his 33 hectares of vineyards dominate the Corton Grancey winery. Aloxe-Corton is an appellation located in a small village on the Côte de Beaune, in the center of the famous Corton hill. It is one of the 27 appellations of origin in the region and is considered one of the most prestigious.

Built in 1834 and revolutionary for the time, it describes itself as “a prodigious work of ingenuity.” Its five levels allow vinification to be carried out by gravity, and its cellars carved into the rock of Corton Perrières guarantee regular aging conditions. The Louis Latour property extends over 48 hectares, where we find everything from the red Grands Crus of the Côte de Nuits to the white Grands Crus of the Côte de Beaune. Louis Latour emphasizes that "Burgundy offers a diversity of terrain unique in the world, where a single-varietal crop can offer us an aromatic palette as vast as the number of its plots."

The 2020 vintage will long be remembered by Burgundians for its uniqueness, according to Louis Latour. Starting in spring, anticyclonic conditions were recorded in the region, which lasted until the harvest. The vegetative cycle therefore showed an unusual precocity that, from sprouting, reached almost three weeks. Added to the sunshine was a general lack of precipitation, giving rise to concentrated phenomena depending on the sector, and sometimes even scorching in the most exposed plots. The few showers that fell very unevenly on the vineyard played a “saving role”, allowing ripening not to be blocked. Consequently, although generally very qualitative, the 2020 vintage was heterogeneous between subregions or even within the same appellation.

From this historic family winery it is stated that "the tastings excite professionals since the particular conditions of this vintage generate new and unique balances." It is added that “there is a subtle richness, of course, but also a pleasant tension, especially in the red varieties. Some already imagine a great vintage destination for the aging of these 2020s, both white and red.”

The 1er Cru Contrôlée Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts 2020 by Louis Latour is a great pinot noir from Beaune (Côte d’Or). The premier cru are plots that stand out for the constant quality of their grapes. Some have described Vosne-Romanée as “the pearl” of the area. Their vineyard was planted three decades ago in clay-ferrous soils. Its yield per hectare is 38 hectoliters. It is harvested manually, and fermentation is carried out traditionally in open fine-grain French oak barrels. The descriptive adjective in Les Beaux Monts is beau (beautiful), which underlines the quality of this wine. The soil of this vineyard is ideal for growing the pinot noir variety, where the grapes reach their maximum maturity.

This vintage shows a cherry color and has a medium-high layer. With very slightly tinted tears. Somewhat ripe red (cherries) and black (plums) fruit (reflection of the vintage) on a bed of vanilla and cedar. From the winery it is stated that "through traditional winemaking its lively perfumes and great fruity character come to light." It exhibits roundness with very good acidity and tension, with hints of citrus blood oranges, underwood and mushrooms. It is also spicy, subtle, sapid and shows garrigue herbs (a somewhat bitter rosemary). Great elegance with a lot of balance. And with a refreshing, somewhat minty finish in the mouth. A haute couture pinot noir that surprises despite its youth. With 14º alcohol and very well integrated aging in wood. For Florent Latour, CEO of Luis Latour, a rabbit with chanterelles “would be perfect” to harmonize with his wine. It is also ideal for a mushroom risotto, grilled octopus, venison with blueberries, cured cheeses and even with baked, grilled or smoked fatty fish. It is recommended to serve at a temperature between 15 and 17º C.

Only around 600 bottles of this wine are produced annually, of which 120 are available in the Spanish market through the distributor Primeras Marcas. Florent Latour remembers that Louis Latour was the first Primera Marcas wine brand, in 1986, and that “today Spain is a larger market for us that is positioned in the TOP 10, and this is thanks to the professionalism of Primera Marcas.” Louis Latour produces around 6 million bottles annually, of which just over 2 million correspond to the protected geographical indications of Ardèche and the southeastern French department of Var (its wines from Domaine de Valmoissine, in Aups). From Burgundy, from Chablis to Beaujolais, this négociant-éleveur adds the rest of the production. In total the group offers about 130 references. They export 85% of their production. Their three main international markets are the United States (where they have the Louis Latour Inc subsidiary in San Rafael, California), the United Kingdom (with the distribution subsidiary Louis Latour Agencies in London) and Japan.