Following the course of the Miño River and the Sil River, the Ribeira Sacra stands imposingly as one of the richest natural environments. Its deep river canyons run through the provinces of Lugo and Ourense. Its slopes are colored with vineyards that must have made a pact with gravity to grow on such a sloping soil. It is not surprising that here the grape harvest is known as the “heroic grape harvest”. Under the shelter of this environment, which in 2021 was declared a biosphere reserve by UNESCO, there are a total of 23 municipalities that have managed to preserve the historical heritage of the place.
The Romans were already aware of the natural assets of this Galician enclave capable of offering riches ranging from oil to grapes and which today have earned the designation of origin. Also followers of the ascetic life such as monks and hermits found refuge in monasteries and churches, authentic jewels of the Romanesque.
Although it is worth a visit at any season of the year, the landscape turns warm colors with the arrival of autumn. On the slopes of the canyons of the Miño and Sil rivers, the reddish and yellow vines of this time create one of the unique postcards of autumn. But not only does the natural environment provide a unique experience to the visitor, we review some of the attractions of the Ribeira Sacara to fully enjoy this biosphere reserve.
One of the best options to discover the place and get the best photographs is to visit each of the viewpoints that cover the mountains, authentic natural watchtowers. If we want to visit them all, it will be better to do it by car because 119 kilometers await us ahead. The day can start from the viewpoint located at kilometer five of the LU-533 highway, which connects Chantada with Monforte de Lemos.
But if you prefer the shoe to the tire, you can walk sections of the route. The trails are perfectly marked and most are accessible for the whole family. The best known are located on the banks of the Sil canyon, a deep gorge of rock, water and tortuous curves. One of the most popular is the Balcones de Madrid viewpoint. Although its views are impressive, it does not owe its name to the fact that you can see the capital from here. From this point the relatives of those who emigrated said goodbye. They were the barquilleros, men originally from the town of Parada de Sil, who went to Madrid to sell wafers at the traveling fairs.
One of the most spectacular viewpoints is the Duque viewpoint, not suitable for visitors with vertigo. Another of the busiest is Cabezoás, its wooden walkway accentuates the feeling of height. Nearby we find the Columna viewpoint, surrounded by chestnut and oak trees and from where you can contemplate the depth of the Sil River.
On the left slope of the Sil River stands a Benedictine monastery whose creation began in the 12th century and was not completed until six centuries later. It has three cloisters of different styles: Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance. This asset of cultural interest has hosted a parador since 2004. The 77 rooms that the hotel currently has were once cells for the retreat of monks. If its nature, history and architecture were not enough, the visit can also be loaded with mystique. Pilgrims came here in search of the miracles that were associated with the monastery for hiding the nine rings of the bishops who took refuge in these walls. And if the miracle does not occur, surely you can at least gain health by enjoying your outdoor jacuzzi, thermal loungers or sauna.
To get to know the environment from a different point of view, you can opt for the river routes that run through the Sil and Miño. If we opt for the route through the Sil, from where we can appreciate the immensity of its canyons, five companies are in charge of carrying out the outings. In the case of the Miño, there are four that offer this experience and the prices of the activity in both basins range from nine euros to twenty euros per person.
The Sil Canyon route is based at the Ponte do Sil yacht club and reaches the height of the Santa Cristina de Ribas de Sil monastery. Another option is the Cabo do Mundo route, which owes its name to the meander formed by the Miño near the municipalities of O Saviñao and Chantada. Along the walk you can contemplate the vineyard landscapes and the small churches that treasure rural life.
The Ribeira Sacra also hides some of the most emblematic towns in Galicia, which help to understand the essence of this land. Located in the province of Lugo, Monforte de Lemos is one of the places that is worth a visit. The Miño and Sil define its orography and its churches and monasteries attest to its history. Here you can visit the Monforte de Lemos parador, located in the old monastery of San Vicente del Pino. This space is another example of the Renaissance style that offers spectacular panoramic views of the city. Other places that are also worth a visit are the convent of Santa Clara, the keep and the count's palace.
Castro Caldelas is one of the towns that usually makes it onto the list of the most beautiful in Spain. Its old town was declared a historic-artistic site in 1998. With just over 1,200 inhabitants, this is a cozy corner where you can also enjoy traditional cuisine. The list of stops is completed by places like Os Peares where depending on the neighborhood you are in you can be in two provinces and four municipalities, or Quiroga, another of the towns that has known how to perfectly adapt its stone architecture with the green of nature.
Back to the heights, balloon rides are an activity that is gaining more and more followers in the Ribeira Sacra. But getting a bird's-eye view of the landscape is only possible from April to October, depending on weather conditions. The excursion lasts about three hours and takes place at dawn, allowing you to enjoy a unique awakening.
You cannot close a tour of this jewel of the biosphere without trying its designation of origin wines. The wine route passes through 20 municipalities and in them you can find a wide range of activities linked to wine. From visits to wineries full of charm to wine museums and interpretation centers, prepared to make known the quality and secret of this crop. Here we still work in the most traditional way. The distribution of the vineyard in terraces or terraces to get rid of the slope of the land gives rise to an environment that prevents mechanization. Some of the wineries that you should put on your list are Adega Aldeira, Bodega Vía Romana or Abadía da Cova.
In the town of Pantón you will find the most fun way to enjoy and get to know the local wines. The Monk's Secret is a kind of gymkhana and escape room. Among vineyards and with exclusive views, you can participate in this kind of treasure hunt offered by the rural homes of the municipality. A game in which the whole family can participate, and even pets are welcome. It is not the only adventure they have prepared in Pantón Rural, following the same adventure plan they also have activities to discover the Ferreira de Pantón monastery.
