Water tastings are beginning to be present in all types of schools and training centers for gastronomy professionals, although discreetly if we take into account that a few years ago a certain boom was anticipated that ultimately did not arrive. More and more restaurants are taking care of their water supply and choosing it based on a series of factors, such as its proportion of minerals and how this influences the flavor, aroma and even density of the liquid.
The fact that mineral waters present a series of nuances compared to tap water does not in any way mean that the latter is of poor quality, much less unhealthy. Mar Luna, director of the European Tasting School and trainer in water tastings, explains it: “The water in the Spanish public network is one of the best in the world. Not only is it suitable for consumption, but it is of high quality, since it is constantly subjected to very rigorous controls."
There are, however, big differences by area when it comes to flavor. “We must take into account that water filters through the soil and that this soil is not the same, for example, in the Massif Central as in the Mediterranean area. The water that is filtered carries contents and although it undergoes rigorous processes to make it drinkable, its flavor can vary depending on the chlorine and mineral salts content. This means that in Madrid and its surroundings the tap water is very good and in other areas, such as the Mediterranean, it is somewhat heavier, harder, with high salinity and also a lot of lime," explains Luna, who insists that " "Many surrounding countries would like to have water as good as Spanish." These particularities that we find in the Mediterranean area give rise to curious anecdotes, such as the one explained by Luna: “there are some Valencians who are devoted to paella and who take the tap water in their area if they have to make paellas in their vacation spot, since which ensures that without it it will not be the same.”
However, between public water and bottled spring water there is, in Luna's words, “a chasm.” The latter always comes from a spring, owned by the state, which offers concessions for a certain number of years, which can even be 100. After undergoing strict quality control, the water is bottled and transported. “The truly expensive part of this process is the packaging and transportation, and it is also what sometimes makes the difference at the marketing level,” continues the director of the European Tasting School.
At the time of tasting, a water says many things about the spring from which it comes depending on the proportions of minerals it presents. All this information (both the presence of minerals and the quantity) is found on the labels. The minerals present in water are sodium, bicarbonates, calcium, magnesium, chlorides, sulfates and potassium. Although the content is minimal and will not have a nutritional impact, it is true that the proportions of minerals “can color the flavor and structure of the water,” continues Luna.
For her part, Meritxell Falgueras, sommelier and member of the International Taste Institute of Brussels (an organization that brings together the best sommeliers in the world to taste different waters), points out that “in the case of water, the flavors and nuances are very subtle, Therefore, it is recommended to attend the tastings first thing in the morning and without perfumes, to be able to capture the presence of certain notes without interference.” Depending on a series of variables, this organization grants a series of certifications (a blue label with three stars) recognizing the excellence of the best waters in the world.
For her part, Luna recommends always tasting water at room temperature, since “the cold causes us to lose sensitivity and lower our perception of nuances.” It is not easy to be a good water taster because, as Falgueras pointed out, you have to have a palate that is open to capturing the subtleties and learning to recognize the presence of certain minerals. In fact, water tastings carried out by professionals somewhat refute that old mantra that is repeated in schools that water is odorless, colorless and tasteless. It is colorless, yes, “but some may have a steely reflection,” explains Falgueras. It is also odorless, “but it is easy for us to notice some mineral nuance on the nose,” and we say that it is tasteless, but the minerals it contains can give it certain particularities in flavor. “Many times we are not even aware, but when we go to a restaurant and we like water we end up drinking more,” says the sommelier, creator of the @winesandthecity account.
For her part, Luna points out that her tastings also include tap water. “The tasting notes are obvious, since in tap water the first thing you notice is chlorine, which is not present in any of the mineral waters that are tasted below,” explains the expert. Luna remembers, however, that “chlorine is volatile, it will go away after a while and will not interfere with the flavor and aroma that the water may have.” Thus, “those that contain a lot of sulfates can be slightly bitter, which may be to the taste of many consumers and pair well with some dishes, while those that contain calcium provide a sensation of harshness in the mouth. Those that have a high sodium content can have a more saline touch and those that have little mineral tend to be generally inconsistent, with a sensation, to put it simply, that they fall in your mouth,” Luna explains.
They are the famous waters of weak mineralization, which often arouse passions and hatred in equal measure among consumers. “The first thing we will see in water is if the presence of minerals is high. We will immediately notice if we are dealing with soft water (with few minerals), since we will have the feeling that it does not quench thirst as much," continues the director of the European Tasting School, who insists that there is no water better than another, but the choice always depends on personal taste or the moment of consumption. "Unlike what happens with wines or oils, where objective parameters can be established that justify some being considered of better quality than others, the same does not happen with water, whose choice always depends on the consumer's preferences." ”, he concludes.
If we want to make things even better, Luna adds new differentiating factors. “In no case is bottled water the same in summer as in winter, although it is something we cannot know because it is not included in the packaging.” Falgueras, for his part, talks about more subjective factors such as the so-called drinkability or ability to be drunk: “it is not true that we do not care what water they give us, because we do not all drink it the same nor do we find it so easy to consume. That's why those of us who dedicate ourselves to this have our favorite waters, which are the ones we always choose."
This water culture, however, although it is emerging among some hoteliers and consumers, has not yet been extended to the general public. “Since we are talking about very subtle micronotes, it is difficult for consumers to make distinctions and, in fact, many projects dedicated to water culture have not worked out: from bars that only serve water to gourmet waters,” says Falgueras. . Among them, the so-called Cloody Juice stands out, which began to be marketed in 2007 with the promise of condensing 9,750 exact drops (not one more nor one less) of water from King Island, a small island in Tasmania.
Luna, for her part, although she points out that mineral waters are different depending on their composition, explains that paying certain amounts for a water “has more to do with marketing than with quality or flavor, so it does not "It is advisable to pay close attention: there are excellent waters at reasonable prices."
Finally, Falgueras remembers that another universe to explore that is also emerging at the moment is that of sparkling water. “Here carbon dioxide allows you to reset between dishes and it is much more fun to organize pairings,” explains the sommelier, who claims the presence of good quality water at any dinner or lunch. “Water will always help lubricate the taste buds and prepare the palate for the wines that will be drunk during the meal,” she says.
