Sofia Coppola's Marie Antoinette has inspired a new aesthetic on the catwalk and also in the vast garden of social media. It's called Coquette and it is the ultimate expression of refinement. Absolutely cheesy, hyperfeminine and childlike. You could say that the French monarch – whose beheading marked the beginning of the republic in France – was the first Coquette in history.
The opulence of her Rococo dresses, full of ornamentation and bathed in pastel tones, are revisited this year on the catwalks of Chanel, Jean Paul Gaultier and Simone Rocha, among many other names in the luxury industry.
Each brand takes it to its own terrain and impregnates it with its codes. A pink satin dress full of bows closes the parade of Prada's fall-winter 2024 collection to discuss the relationship between femininity and gentleness.
Chanel adds white stockings, like the nurse's uniform of yesteryear, to all its models and adorns its mythical tweed with regency ruffs, while, in London, Simone Rocha brings the trend's regression to childhood to her catwalk, with models clad in pink tulle and carrying stuffed animals instead of bags.
On Instagram and TikTok, where the label has already accumulated more than 100 million views, the youngest ones appropriate the aesthetics and defend that hyperfemininity is not incompatible with feminist empowerment, that Nabokov's hypersexualized Lolita is not part of this trend. booming. Behind so much lace and embroidery is actually hidden an expression of individuality, which gives a vindictive meaning to elements that previously served to place women on a lower rung.
