The wine of the week: Teixar 2019

Joan Ignasi Domènech and his wife Rita Nogueroles arrived in Montsant in 2002, initially acquiring two hectares of old Grenache peluda vineyards in a place in Capçanes that this couple and their two children fell in love with.

Oliver Thansan
Oliver Thansan
16 March 2024 Saturday 11:31
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The wine of the week: Teixar 2019

Joan Ignasi Domènech and his wife Rita Nogueroles arrived in Montsant in 2002, initially acquiring two hectares of old Grenache peluda vineyards in a place in Capçanes that this couple and their two children fell in love with. Its objective has always been to conserve and improve the natural heritage of the estate, creating a wine project that expresses the landscape and biodiversity of the environment "becoming a unique ecosystem." They were captivated by the beauty of this amphitheater and the magic of the place, and decided to build a bioclimatic winery integrated into the landscape. In 2004 the first bottles of their first and most iconic wine were released to the market. There were 3,500 bottles of their Teixar, which in 2007 was already certified organic and which in 2015 would become Vi de Finca Qualificadora de Catalunya, the highest distinction to which a Catalan wine can aspire. It was the first wine protected by the DO Montsant and the fourth from Catalonia to obtain this distinction. Today there are 35 hectares planted with organic vineyards on a 130-hectare estate that includes an old hotel built on an 18th century farmhouse. There are those who have stated that the farmhouse, from 1795, was the birthplace of the guerrilla Joan Barceló i Anguera, popularly known as Carrasclet.

Tomorrow, Monday, they begin the celebration of Teixar's 20th anniversary with a special vertical tasting in Barcelona. Throughout this year, vertical tastings will also be held in the most prominent specialized wine stores in Catalonia and in Catalan restaurants and restaurants in Denmark, Belgium, Germany and Switzerland. Teixar is a wine that opted for Garnacha Peluda when no one was talking about it. They have some of the oldest Grenache peluda vineyards in Catalonia, according to the wine registry of Catalonia. 90% of its plantations are red, hairy, gray and white Grenache. Joan Ignasi Domènech, who defines himself as a lover of these varieties, has chaired the Terra de Garnatxes association since its foundation, which includes wineries from Costers del Segre, Empordà, Montsant, Penedès, Priorat and Terra Alta. At Vinyes Domènech they export 40% of their production, between 90 and 120,000 bottles annually. Switzerland, Denmark and the United States are its three main international markets.

From this winery where they are handing over the reins of management to Edgar Domènech, from the second generation of the family, they affirm that their Teixar is characterized by a Mediterranean coastal and mountain microclimate, stony calcareous soils with slopes with a slope of between 10 and 35% and a north-south orientation. They have old hairy Garnacha vines, with very low production, with ecological and biodynamic viticulture. Theirs are also wines suitable for vegans. They work with Garnacha Peluda with up to five different stems, but maintaining its original phenotype. Joan Ignasi Domènech highlights, at the same time, “the biodiversity of the forest environment and our vineyards as a unique interactive ecosystem for the protection of fauna, flora and microorganisms.” They state, at the same time, that "sustainability at Vinyes Domenech is a circular project in which each process and scenario is designed with the objective of reducing the consumption of natural resources and the emission of greenhouse gases."

In recent years they have put special interest in showing a botanical view of their farm. They want to “restore” a lost connection between people and nature, starting with knowledge of its plants. They are also decisively committed to wine tourism. They offer visits in which they affirm that there is “an absolute connection with nature and wine.” They explain that “each bottle of wine transports you to the landscape, the sun, the vineyard, an ancestral variety and the values ​​of this land and our people.” And they assure that the visitor "will feel how the landscape captivates and transports in an honest way to understand the wine culture of our land and the people who make it possible." They even point out that the harmony of its landscape “will immerse you in a state of emotional balance.”

Teixar de Vinyes Domènech comes from the name of a place in Capçanes known as the Font del Teixar. They are plots with an area of ​​three hectares that are located in a protected natural area, of great beauty and ecological value, between the Llaberia mountain range and Montalt. It is a place at 400 meters above sea level surrounded by mountains with pine forests and Mediterranean undergrowth, with an orography that is very irregular. Very concerned about climate change and persistent droughts, they have already begun to plant following the keyline system. The objective is to optimize water resources and minimize the effects of soil loss, helping its regeneration. With this they want to avoid erosion and loss of soil fertility and distribute rainwater naturally through the curved streets of the vineyard for its greater use and try to avoid the erosive effect of runoff. They work especially to enhance the microbiology of their soils.

During the fall of 2018, its vineyards experienced heavy rain events, which caused water reserves to recover. The budding of the vines was at the end of March, with quite a bit of vigor. The wind and humidity compromised the setting of the old Garnacha grapes, which resulted in a decrease in production that was between 30 and 40%. At the end of June there was a strong heat wave, with temperatures above 40 °C which caused some of the berries to burn. The relative humidities were then very low. Afterwards the weather was again optimal for maturation and harvest. According to the winery, the harvest “was continuous and of very good quality.” They harvested at dawn on October 15 and 16, 2019.

After the harvest, the grapes entered a cold room with the thermometer located at 4º C. The alcoholic fermentation started with indigenous yeasts on the third day with a controlled temperature. The maceration lasted for 21 days. The aging took place for 12 months in old French oak foudres where malolactic fermentation also took place. The wine rested in the bottle for two and a half years before being marketed. In this last vintage, Teixar has added a production of 4,128 bottles.

Joan Ignasi Domènech says that Teixar 2019 is “elegance, depth, landscape and perfume.” He adds that “it is a legacy that we must respect and continue.” It has a medium-low layer and a bright ruby ​​color. It shows a profusion of red fruits (cherries and somewhat liquorous strawberries) and is fragrant, highlighting notes reminiscent of rose. It is also mineral (pencil tip). In the taste phase it stands out for the softness of its tannins and an interesting sensation of acidity. It is fresh and leaves a very interesting minty finish. It is silky and elegant. The aging in wood is very well integrated into the wine, and even its 15.6º alcohol. It is a wine that frankly interprets its terroir. Bottled in May 2021. They recommend serving it at a temperature of 16º C. Joan Ignasi Domènech especially likes to pair it with a not very spicy beef steak tartare. He also thinks that it is a good ally to accompany a carpaccio of boletus edulis ('ceps'), a gelatinous grilled turbot or a fricandó with various mushrooms.