Colossal, grand and imposing. This is the National Palace of Mafra, located in the town of the same name, and only 30 kilometers from Lisbon. A World Heritage Site since 2019, this opulent complex is made up of a palace, a basilica and a former convent. The overwhelming data does not deceive. And it is that, to carry out the works of this enormous monument of 42,000 square meters, it took almost 40 years and more than 25,000 workers.
A day in Mafra without visiting its baroque royal palace is a day wasted. In short, centuries of history await you there, condensed into a megalomaniac work that will leave any visitor speechless who stops to observe its immense 250-meter façade. Beautiful contradictions that mean that, although the town is small, it is home to the most impressive baroque work in the entire country.
The origins of the National Palace have to do with a promise. Three years after his wedding to Maria Ana of Austria, King John V of Portugal, who still had no children, promised the Franciscan friars that he would build them a convent in Mafra, if their pleas for an heir to be born were granted.
And that was how the construction of this palace complex began. Princess María Bárbara de Braganza was born in 1711, and construction of the convent began six years later. The initial project for the convent was quite modest, designed for 13 monks to live in its facilities.
However, the King decided to expand the convent for 300 friars, and build a palace and a basilica right there. This situation was fueled by the gold and riches that came from Brazil, and that's how more than 25,000 workers got to work day and night to finish it in time for his majesty's 41st birthday. The project was finished, although with some half-term stays, and the work would be inaugurated at the end of 1730 to celebrate the event of the year for eight days.
The center of this extravagant construction is dedicated to the basilica, and its enormous 70-meter towers. The north wing for the king's apartments, and, separated by a 232-meter long gallery, the queen's apartments, on the south side. Each area also has its chapel, its kitchen and other complementary rooms.
The palace is mainly Baroque in style, with some neoclassical touches. Precious materials such as limestone, Brazil wood, Flemish tapestry, as well as sculptures and paintings brought from Italy were used in its decoration.
In the heart of the palace complex stands the basilica. This stands out for its two towers of more than 70 meters, which house nothing more and nothing less than 49 bells made in Antwerp. The interior of the temple is completely covered with marble, jasper and has a huge collection of Italian Baroque sculpture. Another of the jewels that the basilica hides are its six organs. If you are lucky, you will be able to listen to these unique instruments in the world on the first Sunday of each month.
And, last but not least, the austere 18th century convent, which is located on the opposite side of the palace. One of its most striking rooms is the infirmary, which has a chapel so that the monks could continue their prayers despite being sick. In addition, you can see the refectory, the kitchen, the chapter house and the museum of sacred art.
Its impressive library deserves a special mention. The size of the room and the decoration of the floor with colored marble is only a tiny part of its appeal. Undoubtedly, the treasure of what is one of the most important libraries in Europe is the wisdom that awaits. It boasts a collection with no more and no less than 36,000 volumes from the 14th to the 19th centuries.
Although the impressive palace is the main attraction, the city has other interesting places to stop. Without going any further, the baroque Jardim do Cerco, which surrounds and decorates the palatial construction, serving as the gardens of Versailles. Without a doubt, it is one of the most pleasant areas to walk in Mafra.
On the other hand, leaving the royal lands towards the urban area, you will find a relaxed atmosphere that invites you to continue walking. Although quiet, its streets are also full of excellent restaurants and bars where you can have a good coffee.
In Mafra there is also the Iberian Wolf Recovery Center, created in 1987 with the aim of preserving this animal, and promoting that this species can live in freedom.
Not far from the palace is the Tapada Nacional de Mafra, an old hunting reserve created in 1747 as a leisure park for King John V and his court. This is the largest walled natural area in the country, with 21 kilometers of wall to preserve wildlife, and it has more than 800 hectares.
This natural area awaits a wide variety of flora and fauna, and is currently a space open to the public where different activities are offered. There you can do many hiking or mountain biking routes, horseback riding, guided tours, and even board a small train.
Less than 4 kilometers from Mafra is the village of Sobreiro, a picturesque typical village made with miniatures and animated ceramic figures made by José Franco. There you can learn about the more traditional aspects of rural life in the region.
Along the coast and very close to Mafra, there is also Ericeira, a beautiful fishing village that attracts thousands of surfers every year. The conditions of its waters and the wonderful beaches that surround the town are perfect for practicing this sport.
On the way back to Lisbon, it is advisable to take a break in the small town of Oeiras to visit the palace of the Marqués de Pombal. And, although the comparisons are odious, and it has nothing to do with the Mafra National Palace, this typical manor house is another very interesting example of Portuguese Baroque that is worth visiting.
Finally, if a visit to the coast cannot be missed on your trip, the Mafra region has some corners that are well worth a stop. Belonging to Ericeira, the Ribeira d'Ilhas beach is one of the most beautiful in the area. It has been the scene of different international surfing championships, and that is why it is so popular among surfers.
Following the coast of Ericeira in a southerly direction, Praia do Sul unfolds, one of the largest in this region surrounded by cliffs. Then, Foz do Lizandro beach, which owes its name to the fact that it is located at the mouth of the river with the same name, and is the perfect place to say goodbye to the Atlantic.
