For more than five hundred years, Krakow held the status of the capital of Poland, a country that has suffered human obstinacy for war like few others. During those five centuries, history has molded the profile and character of "the city of Krak", to which Krakus gives its name, who -legend tells us- founded the city on the cave occupied by a dragon that died after eating a sheep full of brimstone. More reliable is the first written mention of the name of the city, which we owe to a Sephardic traveller, Ibrahim ibn Ya'qub, who walked through these lands at the end of the 10th century, and who described Krakow as a notable center of commerce.
Thus, Krakow treasures a cultural heritage that places it at the top of the list of most interesting tourist destinations in northern Europe. The city center, distinguished as a World Heritage Site, is a jewel box of architectural styles and monumental corners that, surprisingly, was hardly damaged during World War II. The explanation for this is also given by a legend; But let's let Francisco Luis Nogueira, Civitatis guide in Krakow, be the one to discover it for us and, also, serve as a guide for the fascinating Polish city.
How did you come to become a tour guide in Krakow?
I was born in Cádiz, and after working in various sectors I moved to Madrid. There, the university published my dissertation on a subject related to the Second World War. That made me rethink everything; I ended up studying history and moving my life thousands of kilometers to show Krakow to other people. Here I have been working as a tour guide for 8 years.
The city was the capital of Poland for centuries. Does its capital character still remain?
Krakow still maintains that character and grandeur that only the capitals possess. Something that reinforces this image is that you can still find part of the original city walls, preserved from its medieval past, or the crypts with the remains of the Polish kings, who were crowned and buried in the Wawel Cathedral, where they still they rest.
Already in our days, what are the places in the city that we could not miss on a visit?
The first place to visit would be the Wawel Castle, next to the cathedral. Nor would he leave me the Collegium Maius, the oldest university building in Poland, nor the Market Square. This square is the heart of the city, where the Cloth Hall, the Basilica of Santa Maria -here is the largest Gothic altarpiece in the world, the work of Veit Stoss-, and the church of San Adalberto form an architectural trinity that will amaze anyone who visits Krakow. In addition, I would not hesitate to take a pleasant walk in the Planty park, surrounding the historic center and discovering its medieval past through its walls or the barbican. Once this was done, I would head to Kazimierz, the Jewish quarter, with an atmosphere as decadent as it is peculiar and absorbing. Full of life, the Jewish heritage is still palpable in the area, being able to discover it through visiting its synagogues, eating kosher food or listening to klezmer music. And of course, there would be time for reflection by visiting the Plaza de las Sillas, place of deportation of Jews in the old ghetto that the Nazis built in the city.
And for culture lovers?
We should not miss the Czartoryski Museum, where The Lady with the Ermine is located, one of only four female portraits painted by Leonardo Da Vinci. The collection of tapestries from the Wawel Royal Castle or the Oskar Schindler factory museum, about the Nazi and Soviet occupation of Krakow, are also essential. I would also recommend visiting the Royal Palace, the Archaeological Museum, the Nowa Huta Museum, about the communist period and the National Museum, with its war section and its art gallery.
Krakow is a city where legend and history come together very naturally. Dragons, magic stones...
Yes, Krakow is a city of legend and legends. Perhaps the most famous of these is associated with the Wawel dragon, whose sculpture is at the foot of the castle and expels real fire every few minutes. The legend of the magic stone, the Chakra, is undoubtedly another of the most famous. The Krakow Chakra is supposedly one of the seven magical stones from which great energy emanates. However, this is still a legend and historical facts show that Krakow was not destroyed during World War II for several different reasons, depending on the moment, whether the attackers were the Nazis or the Soviets.
Kraków had a large Jewish population before the war, which was practically exterminated. What remains of his legacy?
Before World War II, 65,000 Jews lived in Krakow, almost a quarter of the population. However, in March 1943, Krakow was declared a "Jew-free city": the vast majority were exterminated and the rest were sent to concentration camps. Today, his legacy, both historical and cultural, can be found in Kazimierz, the area where the old Jewish quarter was located, where there are seven Jewish quarters -one open to worship- and two Jewish cemeteries, as well as several cultural centers or museums related to Judaism. . Entering the sad period of the Second World War, is Podgórze, the area where the old ghetto was located. You can take a tour of more than 15 buildings that were important during the development of the war and the Holocaust, especially highlighting the Plaza de las Sillas, or one of the original fragments of one of the walls that ran along the perimeter of the ghetto. There are even the remains of the former Plaszów concentration camp.
A legacy, and a city, that are inseparable from the name of Oskar Schindler. Where could we know more about his figure?
Without a doubt, a stop that becomes mandatory when talking about Oskar Schindler and the city is the museum on the occupation of Krakow, which is located in the office building of the old Schindler factory. There we can see some of the pots that were created in the original factory or what his office was like. The house where he lived is also located near the building, although it is a building that cannot be visited.
And, in the vicinity of Krakow, what places would you recommend?
There are three places as interesting as they are different from each other. First of all, Auschwitz, the concentration and extermination camp where the most people died for Nazi barbarism and which is one of the most visited places in all of Poland. Secondly, the Wieliczka salt mines, with dozens of decorated galleries and sculptures made of salt, as well as being a World Heritage Site. Finally, and although a little further from Krakow than the previous two, we have Zakopane, an ideal place as a starting point for nature and sports lovers, with its characteristic wooden houses and its incredible gastronomy. This area located in a natural park is a highly valued visit.
Finally, we cannot leave Krakow without taking with us in our suitcase…
Figures of the Lajkonik or the dragon, the two symbols of the city, as well as souvenirs made of salt, the salt lamps being very famous. Baltic amber is also typical.
