“Money talks, wealth whispers,” says the aphorism. There is no one to attribute it to, but it will be true. You just need to look at how the so-called silent luxury came into our lives: with the soft whisper of cashmere. At this point in the film, however, it couldn't be louder.
The quiet luxury phenomenon is now everywhere. And that is not new either: less than a decade ago it was known as stealth wealth. Before too, although no one had coined a cool name for it. In any case, there was talk of old money, referring to fortunes of rancid ancestry or compound surnames, an expression that has returned to its own right on TikTok and Instagram, the current breeding ground for trends. There were reasons for it to prosper, of course.
Reaction to the global crisis and the skyrocketing cost of living, a consequence of fatigue in the face of maximalism and the tyranny of streetwear with its garish logos, the increasing concern for sustainability, the desire to reconcile comfort and style after the pandemic... There are plenty of reasons . “It is also the result of greater consumer awareness, with an educated buyer who has realized that the main brands are favoring their (economic) interests over the quality (of their items),” explains Vincent Grégoire, director of the department of consumer trends from the veteran Parisian consultancy NellyRodi, who also refers to a “revenge against the most arrogant expression of luxury.”
The question now is whether such a vendetta will last. The expert believes that it will lead to a new refinement, less reductionist than the current one, formulated to make us feel good, “a type of luxury that explores the idea of pleasure, benefit, reward. What started in fashion moved to beauty, and from there to hospitality, travel and leisure. From behavior it has gone from aesthetic to becoming a generic label, to an authentic movement with an impact on all areas of lifestyle.” Let's see then:
There is a certain inclination to consider minimalist decoration, with its pure geometry and white/neutral tone, as a paradigm of refined interior design. And while it is true that it abounds in the homes of the rich and famous, it actually has nothing to do with the discreet charm of anti-opulence. Pristinely designed living rooms that cannot even be replicated from Patrick Bateman's apartment (American Psycho)? Mistake. Ascetic beigecore mansions like Kim Kardashian's? Again mistake.
In the home, the key to quiet luxury also lies in “the subtlety and exquisiteness of the materials, so that quality defines a room, rather than style or aesthetics,” explains Shea McGee, the famous interior designer. from the Netflix show Dream Home Makeover. That, and converting the home environment is a personal expression, exalting the craftsmanship of a piece, the history behind it, the time it took to achieve... Experts increasingly recommend going to flea markets, flea markets and vintage stores and buy not based on the price, but on the emotion that the item arouses. Once at home, no one should draw attention over the other, stealing the spotlight. Beauty is in balance, not in simplicity.
Of course, the phenomenon has also spread to the restaurant industry. The saturation of Instagrammable bars and dining rooms – the perfect distraction so that you do not focus on what is happening on the plate or in the glass –, in which the price takes precedence over the value of the culinary or spirit experience, can be considered the trigger of the return to efficient service (diligent when it comes to satisfying our desires, but without fuss, juggling or excessive formality), the calm environment for the senses, quality raw materials and expertise in the kitchen or the bar. Locations such as the Lower East End of New York or the Knightsbridge area of London have thus become new destinations of relaxed gastronomic luxury, with a clientele that dresses without extravagance for the occasion.
It doesn't matter if it is a bistro, a hotel restaurant or that traditional restaurant that offers dishes prepared with local ingredients and that recovers recipes and flavors from the past, to the letter of the grandmother (see Mesón from Crecente, in San Pedro de Mera, the best kept secret of Lugo with its wood-fire stews and clay pots to the greatest delight of ingredients from its own garden and slaughter that has conquered Amancio Ortega himself). Whether a feeling of privacy invades you or it seems that it has been cooked/prepared just for you, that is the crux of the matter.
Off-season destinations, places of calm and simple tastes or culturally alive and vibrant, spaces where you can reconnect. More than a way of traveling, a genuine lifestyle... globetrotter. The typical distinction between traveler and tourist could be relevant, if it were not for the classist stench that such classification usually gives off.
What really matters is enjoying what you have experienced: luxury is a trip rich in emotions, in unforgettable experiences, whether in a mountain refuge that empowers the local community (the Kasbah du Toubkal, in the Moroccan Atlas, for example ), a cabin lost in the forest (any of the five villas of the Japanese Tenku, in the Kagoshima prefecture), a hotel museum (the Chambers in New York, with more than half a thousand works of art by contemporary artists distributed between rooms and common areas) or a guest house with custom service (The Green O in the state of Montana). Establishments located in what were once ancestral homes, convents or old palaces, sustainable, with few rooms, personalized attention, attention to the last detail and where discretion is the maximum round out an offer that, according to the annual list of destinations prepared by American Express, based on the reservations of its card users, is going to hit it big in Mexico in 2024. That Dior chose DF to lend its latest cruise collection may have something to do with it.
That silent luxury also permeated as a trend in gardening did not have much loss, of course. Maybe because few images scream old money more than that of a lady cutting roses from the flowerbeds of her cottage. Although the truth is that it was a young influencer of our days who pointed out the hidden opulence of green: the designer Sofia Richie (little daughter of Lionel Richie and stepsister of Nicole Richie), who in August shared via Instagram a image of the backyard of his Los Angeles home, unleashing a renewed fury for gardening refinement.
Ad hoc environmental treatment works in any particular green space, whether it extends several hectares or is reduced to an urban balcony. It is enough to add details of a certain distinction, be it an outdoor rug (which must be kept clean, of course, on pain of ruining the desired effect), a leafy hedge that calls for privacy, a warm piece of furniture or, simply, upgrade the flower pots. The point is to give our small or large oasis an artistic focal point that makes it look more considered and elegant. For open spaces, stone fire pits with a circular design are heating up strongly.
Inheritance, legacy, is in the DNA of timeless luxury. It is, in fact, its essence. That is why the champions of well-understood exclusivity invest more and more in maintaining and renewing their ateliers, perpetuating that ancestral know-how. Factories and workshops with years – even centuries – of history and experience are the true luxury of our days, so much so that in countries like France they are under official protection. And they are also one of the best ways to preserve identity in these times of globalization and monoculture. It goes without saying that if they have stood the test of time it has been (is) thanks to the uniqueness of the products and their excellent quality.
The Fajalauza factory, in the Albaicín of Granada, dedicated for 500 years to the production of artistic tiles, earthenware and glazed tableware decorated in the Moorish style, is the perfect example: eating on one of its plates is not the same as eating on one of series (or with the current log). But it is not necessary to go back that far in time: founded in London in 2012, Carl Friedrik is a paradigmatic case of the recovery of the leather craft, with its suitcases and travel bags made in Italy. After appearing in series such as The White Lotus or the benchmark Succession, its sales volume has skyrocketed by up to 103 percent. Combining business and cultural impact is the formula to undertake in the new business scenario fostered by discreet luxury.
“My work is tradition, design and quality,” agreed Álvaro Martínez Leiro after winning the 2023 National Crafts Award, awarded by the Ministry of Industry and Tourism, at the beginning of December. The Galician basket thus defines what artisanal work means today, a way of preserving and revitalizing old crafts, transmitting their beauty and value through contemporary pieces. A Loewe collaborator since 2016, Martínez Leiro's work responds to “the new morals, the new ethics and the new values” that, according to Vincent Grégoire, dominate the purchasing decisions of this type of elevated consumers ascribed to luxurious discretion. Because it connects with nature and origins, but also because each piece that comes out of the hands of artisans like him is unique, whether it is a wool or linen garment woven on a centuries-old loom that works without electricity, a jewel product of alchemy. goldsmith or a simple ceramic bowl (like those that designer Ann Demeulemeester now creates, after leaving fashion, for the Belgian family brand Serax).
Sustainability of the process and materials aside, knowing that the current artisan product, with a modern design, not only helps to ensure that the manual knowledge of our ancestors does not disappear, but also enhances the revitalization of rural areas, guarantees the future of the way of make favorite of true luxury.
And what about innovation in digital times, with the advances that, in principle, should make our lives easier? Is it possible to apply the philosophy of relaxed luxury to them? Maybe it all comes down to a question of marketing, but the answer is, indeed, yes. And no, it has nothing to do with the Issey Miyake turtleneck sweaters that Steve Jobs wore, the drab gray sweatshirts of Mark Zuckerberg or the sneakers worn by Silicon Valley luminaries.
“Silent technology represents a type of innovation that, in its mystery, ambition and ability to make our desires come true, has one foot in science and the other in magic,” explains the British market consultancy B12 Strategies. “The conscious consumer wants the best of both worlds: technical functionality that satisfies their emotional needs,” they conclude. The concept can be applied both to mobility (see the electric cars of the Swedish team Polestar and its commitment to pure design) and to telephony from brands such as Shift, Teracube or Fairphone (which produce their aesthetically attractive smartphones without planned obsolescence and with parts that can be replaced, by the users themselves, and improved over time). And it extends to a range of smart products, from Zen-inspired noise-canceling headphones to yoga software in the metaverse, that influence health.
Taking into account that almost two-thirds of luxury consumers scrupulously observe the degree of environmental commitment of brands and hold them responsible for the entire life cycle of their products, according to a recent study by Boston Consulting Group for the French Colbert Committee , it is understood that quiet luxury technology has no choice but to speak the language of sustainability.
According to a study by the universities of Cornell and Colorado, 78% of millennials surveyed say they prefer to spend their money on an activity or experience rather than purchasing a product. That is, invest in time. A change in the consumerist paradigm that had been observed before the covid pandemic and that was consolidated after it. Of course, that is something that wealth has always practiced: there is nothing that great fortunes value more than their time. Old money may not flaunt its condition, but it does not forgive paying good tributes, filling your leisure moments with those activities that you find satisfactory and pleasurable. And that is why private social clubs were invented, which are no longer just a thing for gentlemen (luckily, times also change), with an offer tailored to each person's interests: family activities, musical evenings, workshops, exhibitions, film series, readings, wellness…
In London, a traditional bastion of membership, new hot spots such as Maison Estelle or Apollo’s Muse have appeared; in New York, Zero Bond and SubMercer are bustling; In Barcelona, you can choose between the newest The Cover, Juno House (for women only) and By Safe House or longer-term ones like the popular Soho House; while Nuevo Club, Club Alma and Club Matador operate in Madrid. In Ibiza, the destination is Los Patios, in Santa Eulalia: “Authentic people, authentic conversations, authentic cool,” she proclaims.
“Not all of us can enjoy life in a 2,000-euro cashmere sweater or French designer interiors, but it will always be possible to find a little luxury in beautiful high-end books,” publisher Penguin Random House says on its website. purpose of the volumes that “exude quiet luxury.” It is, of course, a clever maneuver to publish their coffee tables, those billets dedicated to fashion, art, decoration, architecture, cinema or jewelry that look so good on the more or less low tables in the living room. Large format, designer covers, lush images printed on superior quality paper that “elevate these books to the category of experience in themselves.” In short, this wave reaches the publishing business, ridden by Rizzoli, Taschen, Phaidon, Assoulini, Galobart... However, these types of formidable books have always meant just the opposite, as objects of ostensible price that, on top of that, usually end up as mere pieces of decoration.
Marketing tricks aside, there is a certain sense of silent editorial luxury: that of collecting first editions, that of losing track of time in second-hand bookstores or that of betting on the catalog of small, independent publishers that pamper their editions and they bet on new voices and ways of narrating. The titles by Impedimenta, Blackie Books, Carpe Noctem, Libros del K.O., Lengua de Trapo or Fulgencio Pimentel are those that make any bookshelf better, stealing the hearts of their readers.
In the collective longing for calm, quality and benefit in a society that is too fast, too noisy and too superficial, we had been left with wellness as a discreet luxury experience to resort to. That of the spa experience, using natural and organic products. Ultimately, it is about taking care of yourself, with high-maintenance routines that not only affect the physical, but also act on a mental level, boosting self-esteem: regular facial treatments, manicures and pedicures at least twice a month , dental cosmetics (but never with a blinding effect), timeless haircut and color instead of the latest hair trend on the catwalks, regular exercise (Pilates, yoga, running, but it is also worth walking the dog or taking a restorative walk), meditation …
But now it's about going further, and not just because potentates are increasingly obsessed with prolonging their longevity. According to a recent report from the Business Of Fashion portal, young Zetas are more concerned about the signs of aging than any of the previous generations, so much so that their spending on products and treatments to prejuvenate (aesthetic procedures that focus on prevention, not on correction) has been triggered. The longevity, anti-aging or regenerative medicine clinics they attend combine innovative treatments (infrared saunas, hyperbaric oxygen, red light therapy, infusions, ozone and ice baths to apply a thermal shock to proteins...) with the knowledge of traditional scientific research, taking a holistic approach that may include a combination of supplements, medications, physical exercise, diet or mental health. After all, luxury begins with yourself.
