“When I find a color darker than black, I will use it. Until then, I will wear black!” Coco Chanel declared on more than one occasion when she was questioned about the binomial that she established between black and elegance, leaving behind conventions associated with the church and slamming the door on that colorful outburst that was established after the end of World War II. She created black, many fashion historians have said, and it is perfectly confirmed by walking through the retrospective of this creator, Gabrielle Chanel, Fashion Manifesto, at the Victoria.
“Putting together all these pieces has been an arduous task, but the museum curators deserve a big round of applause. Among the more than two hundred garments in the exhibition, two colors stand out, black and white. I always remember what she said: 'Women think of all colors except the absence of colors. I have always maintained that the black man has everything. She kept him even when she fell from grace after the end of the war and his failure in Hollywood,” Catherine Whitney, PhD in Journalism from the University of Edinburgh, tells us.
In the same way that after the First and Second World Wars the most cheerful colors flooded every shop window and every fashion magazine, with the war in Ukraine a common custom returned during armed conflicts: “Frivolity becomes totally obsolete, austerity and “formality is the new in, with the emphasis that this also implies on sustainability, intimacy, reflection and versatility,” explains Vanessa Friedman in The New York Times.
“The Roaring Twenties, revived after the pandemic, have once again been left behind and the will of the leaders of Gen Z is expressed by betting on quality, vintage pieces and much less impulsive purchases with serious consequences for the planet and the social economy. "adds Joy Clemens, professor of Styling at the prestigious Central Saint Martins school in London. That does not mean that black is an imposition for fear of taking risks. You just have to look at her dress, with shiny details, and the black peacoat worn by Taylor Swift on her 34th birthday, or the tight latex one that Alexa Chung chose to celebrate her turning 40.
This is how since last autumn we have witnessed the birth of the phenomenon called The Great Black Coat, which follows in the wake of the words spoken in March of last year by another great couturier, Miuccia Prada: “We cannot leave fashion anywhere without sense. Basically, I think we should dress to generate reflection.” She is seconded by Sarah Burton, creative director of Alexander McQueen: “I think it's important that we keep our feet on the ground, because the world is in chaos right now.”
This is why this winter fashion seeks to provide that need for protection and practicality. Just look at The Row show in Paris where Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen appeared on opposite sides of the catwalk to the tune of the gothic-rock song Bela-Lugosi’s Death by The Bauhaus.
Another master of haute couture, Pierpaolo Piccioli, head of Valentino, has also made it clear in his statements to Vogue Italia: “Now that etiquette codes have been partially eliminated by the wealthy classes, they can be reinterpreted as symbols. of empowerment. Sometimes those limitations, after too much noise, can be liberating.” And in this abstraction of moulage new silhouettes and styles are born, always advocating, without a doubt, well-crafted pieces, in noble materials and in one color: black.
We see it in the coats presented by the Davii brand, of Brazilian origin and currently established in Porto, at the Portugal Fashion Week. “The Great Black Coat is that wardrobe item to invest in, because it will always allow you to be on-trend, whether with an aithleisure look, with jeans or with a party dress. This season I wanted to interpret it as a reinterpretation of the kimono, playing with the length of the sleeves and creating an oversized volume reminiscent of the eighties,” the designer tells us from the north of the neighboring country. In this same Japanese line we find SKFK coats, which combine design and circularity, with wool blend constructions and three-quarter sleeves.
Dior has also opted for the black coat, but with double-breasted collars or with double-breasted or belted wool coats. Likewise, the brand under the leadership of Maria Grazia Chiuri recovers leather in midi-cut coats, a material that we also see in Hermès. Loewe opts for the black coat in maxi format and Dries Van Noten presents it fitted and with shiny details, as does the English Simone Rocha even in masculine proposals. In our country, Lola Casademunt, Roberto Verino, La Veste and Cus design black coats in wool, leather, velvet or looking for the anorak effect. As accessories, the catwalk has opted for stilettos, boots, berets and bags with gold finishes, like those from Gucci.
“In the world of design, there is always a trendy color that is adopted as a neutral. While white remains a constant neutral haven, beige was a favorite in the early 2000s. Over the last decade, gray has taken the lead. But now, many designers dare to use black as a new neutral tone,” says Yolanda Aranda, head of the Yolanda Santos interior design and strategic communication studio. Thus, the color black has made its way into interior decoration as an avant-garde canvas. We see it in the Black on White rugs by Nanimarquina, in the Lounge Chair by Charles
Traditionally, this deep and enigmatic tone has been combined with wood or metal to create spaces with a masculine air, conveying a feeling of strength and firmness. This combination evokes the offices of executives and bankers on Wall Street or The City of London. “These combinations enhance the texture and warmth of wood, or the cold, modern shine of metal, creating environments that are both welcoming and decidedly contemporary.
However, black is not exclusive to male aesthetics. When combined with porcelain or veined marble, black reveals a surprisingly feminine and refined facet. This mix generates fascinating contrasts, where the gracefulness of the rawest materials is juxtaposed with the firmness of black. This duality demonstrates the versatility of black as a color that transcends genders and stereotypes,” adds Aranda. Once again fashion and interior design go hand in hand when elegance comes into play.
