Somewhere along the coast between Cartagena and Mazarrón time seems to stop. Between the mountains and lemon groves there is a farmhouse surrounded by palm trees and bougainvillea blown by the sea breeze. Beyond a certain lagoon, which some days dawns with the fish face up, there is a Murcian coast of coves, oases and places carved by the wind and the sea where we can get lost in search of the summer we dream of. We explore the most magical corners of the Costa Cálida.
Few beach lines are capable of containing as many stories as Mazarrón, especially in the Bolnuevo area. After feasting on paparajotes - a typical Murcian dessert -, nothing better than going through the whitewashed chalets, peeking out of the mythical Torre del Caballo and succumbing to the greatest attraction in the bay: the Bolnuevo Clays, a group of natural sculptures made of sandstone brought by the Mediterranean Sea more than five million years ago. A geological spectacle not exempt from mysticism since, according to the locals, in this "enchanted city" the Virgin of the Immaculate Conception emitted a beam of light one night in the 16th century to protect the people of Mazarrón from pirate attacks.
A few weeks ago I was talking about La Algameca Chica, a small town with one hundred and ten shacks built on the Rambla de Benipila. The Shanghai of Cartagena is torn between alegality and recognition, at the same time that life passes rocked by the sound of the sea, cats sniff between blue windows and colored boats evoke a life far from the known world. A small and nostalgic community that invites you to take a hiking route from the city of Cartagena, located 4 kilometers away.
Just before reaching the Mar Menor, the town of Los Belones tells you that you have arrived at the secret paradise of Murcia. The Calblanque Natural Park is a protected area that limits motorized access and the few farmhouses coexist among mountains scented with pine trees. A set of steep cliffs, salt pans that should be protected - the Salvemos Calblanque association is working on it - and beaches that will delight lovers of surfing and relaxation: from the more familiar Cap Negret to my favorite and farthest away, Playa Parreño , ideal for the practice of naturism in an environment of superlative blue and even the sighting of sea turtles.
At the end of the tourist neighborhood of Lo Pagan, San Pedro del Pinatar displays a set of iconic mud baths. You only have to find a certain wooden staircase to access this Mediterranean corner, famous for the presence of a natural ointment born from the hours of sunshine and the highly salinity waters of the Mar Menor. According to one local, you'll need to smear mud all over your face and body for nine days to get results, a formula that seems to work for the many people with skin conditions who flock to this unique wellness oasis.
After the muddy bath, nothing better than continuing among solitary mills and strolling next to the pink lagoons of the San Pedro del Pinatar salt flat, where flamingos perform their dances among the reeds. The hiking routes end with a beer in the port.
Looking around you from the beach, it seems that La Azohía is still frozen on some day in the sixties: there is a little boat on the horizon, the laughter of children comes from a patio flooded with bougainvillea, and on the few terraces a Murcian salad filled with black olives. La Azohía is a small coastal town with no pretensions, except for enjoying total relaxation, 23 kilometers from Cartagena, through a no less unique route that meanders through barely urbanized landscapes.
They say that there are destinations that are worth arriving at, and Cala Reona is one of them. Very close to the Rasall salt pans, in the aforementioned Calblanque park, the hiking route to Cala Reona covers two hours through almost 9 km that run along the old Geominera path, built at the time for the circulation of animals loaded with minerals from these mountains. A flirtation with the sea through cliffs, debris heaps, karstic formations and narrow paths until reaching a cove ideal for diving or simply spreading out your towel.
On the way to Cala Reona you can choose between ending on the beach or detouring towards Cabo de Palos, one of the most beautiful corners of the Murcian coast. You will realize that you have arrived at this reserve when you see its iconic lighthouse, which dominates places like the seabed where the Naranjito rests, a sunken ship - and the best excuse to dive -; Levante beach or the wilder coves of the Calblanque natural park. One of the advantages of calling at Cabo de Palos lies in the proximity to many recommended places in the Cartagena area.
Bordering the province of Almería, but still in Murcia, the town of Águilas sighs like a remote secret that promises an old-fashioned summer: from sitting at a good table in the town square to a swim in Los Cocedores beach, passing by the Isla del Fraile, located in the Hornilla bay and rich in heritage - various ceramic pieces for preparing garum, the ketchup of the Romans - have been found. We are not going to lie: in full sun there are plenty of jet skis, which is why we recommend going near sunset, when the number of bathers decreases considerably, and being alone with history has never been so dreamy.
