Having a duende, Lorca defined it as that "mysterious power that everyone feels" and that no one can explain. And the Cádiz coast has it. It is undoubtedly something magical, especially in summer, when the days are long and the nights are eternal. And although those years are long gone when only hippies and locals populated its beaches, this destination, now so fashionable, still preserves the usual good customs, the tinto de verano, the good flamenco, a good shrimp omelette... And , yes, it seems like a cliché, but it is not, actually it is a way of living, what the French call l'art de vivre but with an Andalusian accent.
Here you want something simple, go in flip flops, eat in the sun and feel the sea, nothing else is needed to be seduced by the spell of the south. From the town of Sancti Petri to Tarifa, passing through Conil, the white town of Vejer, to Barbate and the bohemian Zahara, each corner offers a piece of the authentic Andalusian essence. It may not be the dream paradise, but it looks a lot like it.
We are talking about endless beaches where the sea merges with pine forests, marshes and dunes. Most of them are wild, with fierce waves only suitable for the brave, but with sunsets so exceptional that it is worth waiting until the sun goes down to discover that all shades are possible. Then, all that remains is to collect your belongings, and with the salt still stuck to your body, go in search of the live music that plays in some beach bar: Bibo Beach in Valdevaqueros, Vavá in La Barrosa, Sajorami Beach in Zahora,… And so the days go by, without thinking about what to do tomorrow.
But if its beaches are exceptional, so are its towns that travel between one-way roads, and that deviate along paths of sand and dirt to discover wonderful corners. Vejer is one of the most beautiful, it is made up of narrow and labyrinthine streets in which houses with extremely white walls are piled up, and inside whose interiors delicious neighborhood patios are hidden, essential to avoid the summer heat.
Inevitably, you have to go through the Jardín del Califa, a restaurant that offers a trip to the past of Moroccan gastronomy in a beautiful garden. Right next door, the Plaza 18 hotel, with just six rooms, becomes an elegant refuge for travelers. And when night falls, the gypsy music of La Bien Pagá is a priceless experience.
Barbate is another of the essential towns, yes or yes you have to wander the streets and visit the Abastos market, which is wonderful, small but with fresh fish stalls that never cease to amaze with their variety and quality. The path can continue towards Zahara de los Atunes, an old fishing village once centered on the almadraba, which is why its restaurants offer dishes made from bluefin tuna, which they serve in a thousand ways.
Finally, Tarifa, the town that is between two seas and constantly lashed by the east and west winds, is the most desired paradise for lovers of surfing and kitesurfing. Perhaps it is not so suitable for those who want to sunbathe on the sand. And for those who can afford it, Villa Punta Paloma is a private house with the services of a luxury hotel, located in an exceptional location, the El Estrecho nature reserve.
The sleeping and dining options are endless. But the same thing happens to all of us, and it is that almost without realizing it, Cádiz tricks us, hooks us, and we end up returning again and again to a land with a goblin.
