San Cristóbal de la Laguna, the historical jewel of Tenerife

San Cristóbal de La Laguna is one of the 15 world heritage cities in Spain, something that already suggests its great attraction for tourists and locals.

Oliver Thansan
Oliver Thansan
10 March 2023 Friday 13:11
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San Cristóbal de la Laguna, the historical jewel of Tenerife

San Cristóbal de La Laguna is one of the 15 world heritage cities in Spain, something that already suggests its great attraction for tourists and locals. Its privileged location, in the heart of a valley, meant that the population was perfectly protected from pirate attacks, a perfect example of an unwalled colonial city. This position made it the capital of Tenerife for more than 300 years.

The old quarter of the city stands out for its palaces and churches, but also for its lively spirit thanks to the youthful air that the university gives it. In addition, it is located less than ten minutes by car from the Tenerife North airport, making it a mandatory stop for any newcomer to the island.

Let's start with a brief historical review. The conquest of the Canary Islands begins at the beginning of the 15th century and lasts almost 100 years. At that time the discovery of America took place, in the year 1492. For this reason, it is not surprising that San Cristóbal de La Laguna served as an inspiration in the aesthetics of many cities in Latin America.

Strolling through cobbled streets such as Obispo Rey Redondo or San Agustín or through squares such as Adelantado is to take a true trip back to colonial times. Particularly noteworthy of this monumental center are the Tuscan-style tower of the parish church of Nuestra Señora de la Concepción, the sanctuary of the Santísimo Cristo de La Laguna, the convent of Santa Catalina de Siena or the palace of Nava. All these buildings have been declared of cultural interest.

The city draws attention for the bright colors of the facades of its houses. Walking it is possible to run into indigo, yellow, pink and orange walls as if it were a movie set. Every corner deserves a photo.

These bright colors lead to the cathedral of San Cristóbal de La Laguna, which contrasts with its white and gray tones. Neo-Gothic in style and more modern in appearance than the other temples in the town, it was built at the beginning of the 20th century and in it lie the remains of Alonso Fernández de Lugo, conqueror of the island and founder of the city. The entrance for non-resident citizens in the province of Santa Cruz de Tenerife is 6 euros.

To continue investigating the past of San Cristóbal de La Laguna, nothing better than its multiple exhibitions. The Museum of History and Anthropology of Tenerife, the house of Los Sabadeños, the Museum of Sacred Art of Santa Clara or the Cristino de Vera Foundation are some examples.

However, special emphasis should be placed on the Cayetano Gómez Felipe house-museum, inaugurated in 2019. A perfect example of a typical 18th-century Canarian house. You can learn about the family biography behind this property and see valuable pieces of art from its collection. Or relax with a coffee in your quiet patio. The sound of its fountain and the singing of the birds in this corner manage to fill the most restless tourist with peace in a few minutes. And at a very cheap price.

On the other hand, near the historic center stands out the Museum of Science and the Cosmos, ideal for families with children. The exhibition has numerous interactive areas where you can learn by playing. It offers anything from a plasma ball, a planetarium, or even a mirror maze.

The historic center of La Laguna is full of places to enjoy the exquisite Canarian gastronomy. In fact, it is one of the most popular cities for tapas on the island, especially the areas surrounding the Plaza de la Concepción. The alternatives are multiple and most of these places have a terrace where you can please your palate while contemplating the continuous coming and going of passers-by.

Any recommended restaurant? We stayed with El Patio Canario, located in an 18th century mansion. The portions are substantial and it is possible to try everything from the typical wrinkled potatoes with mojo to an omelette with plantain and gofio, fish churros or fiesta meat, pure delights. Near here, you can finish off the afternoon with a dessert at Makika

Beyond the historic center, San Cristóbal de La Laguna is home to many other charms, including the Anaga rural park, whose area is divided between this municipality, Tegueste and Santa Cruz de Tenerife. Nature lovers will find here a perfect place to disconnect that is completely away from the typical image of sun and beach in the Canary Islands.

Anaga stands out for its laurel forests, an ecosystem of lush vegetation that inhabited the humid and temperate zones of the planet 20 million years ago. Today, it only survives in a few places such as the Canary Islands, Azores or Madeira. To enjoy this biosphere reserve, we recommend the Cruz del Carmen viewpoint, which also offers an incredible view of Teide on clear days. Likewise, different trekking routes start from here, such as the forest of enigmas or the path of the senses. They are all well signposted and show a very unknown side of Tenerife.

History, nature and, yes, also the beach. San Cristóbal de La Laguna, like most of the municipalities in Tenerife, has a coast. In the northern area there are different natural pools that are very popular among chicharreros, the best known being those of Bajamar. The dam of these constructions, built on the seafront, allows these pools to be continuously filled with the coming and going of the Atlantic waves, which offers a totally safe bath without currents. In fact, these pools have the distinctive blue flag. Ideal for children and adults.

Near Bajamar there are also the natural pools of Punta del Hidalgo, where, in addition to enjoying a refreshing dip, it is possible to admire one of the most beautiful sunsets in La Laguna.

If you talk about San Cristóbal de La Laguna, you cannot leave aside its popular festivals. Of them, one of the most famous is Holy Week, the oldest in the Canary Islands. Of all the festivities that take place on these dates, one of the most striking is the procession of Silence. The streets of the historic center are left in the dark and are illuminated only by the brothers who are following in rigorous silence the passage of the image of the dead Christ.

At the opposite extreme, we can mention the carnival which, although not as famous as the one in Santa Cruz de Tenerife, also offers a wide program of parades, dances, children's workshops and other fun events. And, of an even more traditional character, the pilgrimage of San Benito Abad, held in the month of July, stands out. Here, carts with typical food, floral offerings, cattle, partying and people dressed in regional costumes go through the streets of La Laguna creating a most festive atmosphere. This celebration of national tourist interest is the perfect opportunity to discover its most folkloric side.