Enriquetto, the new trattoria in Barcelona that recovers classic pastas

Enriquetto could be the chef who cooks the pasta al dente in the new trattoria located where Albert Cambra's Pervers used to be, with its daring and tasty cuisine.

Oliver Thansan
Oliver Thansan
21 January 2024 Sunday 22:13
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Enriquetto, the new trattoria in Barcelona that recovers classic pastas

Enriquetto could be the chef who cooks the pasta al dente in the new trattoria located where Albert Cambra's Pervers used to be, with its daring and tasty cuisine. And even before that, El Bodeguín, where the young students from the upper area who went to drink cigars used to take the occasional slap from the boss. But is not the case.

If the house we are referring to today is called Enriquetto (Hercegovina, 24) it is in homage to Enric Rebordosa, one of the three partners who have just opened it. This is what the other two decided, Kim Díaz (from Bar Mut) and Miquel Puchol. Enriquetto is that affectionate nod to a friend and a declaration of love for Italian cuisine, simple pasta and those dining rooms where one feels comfortable without the bill skyrocketing and without great pretensions in the gastronomic field.

We have made reference on other occasions to Enric Rebordosa, an entrepreneur with the gift of ubiquity and prone to embarking on projects that excite him with the help of different partners and always willing to recreate environments with imagined stories or to impeccably rehabilitate premises with of historical interest (El Cafè del Centre, which he runs with Lito Baldovinos from Grup Confiteria, has just obtained the National Award for Centenary Commercial Establishments). While he receives the tribute he deserves, his friends have paid him theirs by dedicating this Italian restaurant that he himself has decorated and where the preparations are served on beautiful porcelain plates from Limoges or Cartuja.

They are convinced that the terrace that complements the tubular dining room, in the small square next to the restaurant, will be an essential meeting point in the neighborhood. And the synergy with the tiny bar opposite, Monterolas, which they have also opened and which they already imagine as a complement to the trattoria, will contribute to this.

They have started with a menu that includes some of the pasta classics that they like the most and that is prepared by the Chilean chef (with Italian ancestry on his mother's side and ties also through in-laws) and his sous chef, the Bolognese Joelle. A brief menu, for the moment, completed by some starters and a couple of seconds. Among the first, the mortadella and parmesan or the burrata with pesto and tomato, the carpaccio, a tasty interpretation of the Harry's Bar classic or a correct candied artichoke salad. For now they do not make the pasta by hand in-house, although they hope to do so in the future.

With the perception that they are in the middle of filming, we try some correct ravioli with burrata and red pesto sauce, the fettuccine Alfredo that the waiter finishes by mixing the butter and pecorino cheese in front of the diner or the parpadelle with ragù.

They serve the very friendly professional clients who were selected - as we already reported in La Vanguardia - repeating Kim Díaz's initiative to make a call for the selection of waiters and waitresses aimed at people over 50 years of age (something he had successfully tried at Bar Mut in 2015), to vindicate the experience of those professionals with a long career who are often marginalized due to age. Enriquetto eagerly joins the offer of a city with a high bar in Italian cuisine and with such genuine references as Xemei, Rafaelli, Bacaro or La Cocine Madorosso, among others. We will have to give everything.