The letter of introduction when you arrived in Barranquilla for the first time - or at least, in my case - was a taxi driver's warning about burundanga and the 22 ways to fall into its networks, which, really, did not correspond to my later experience. Be careful, yes, common sense, of course; but like in many places in the world. The rest, at least when we talk about Barranquilla on the eve of its carnival, invites you to get lost in a universe of color and music that recalibrates the senses and encourages you to be whoever you want.
Considered oral and intangible heritage by UNESCO, the Barranquilla carnival is not only one of the most important carnivals in the world, but also a meeting point for all paths of tradition and folklore of the city of Barranquilla, the Rio Grande of La Magdalena and the Colombian Caribbean. We get lost in one of the most popular festivals in all of Latin America, which, this year, is celebrated from February 10 to 13.
Who will is who enjoys live! It is one of the phrases that resonates most in Barranquilla during the celebration of its carnival, an event that is celebrated between Carnival Saturday and Tuesday, the day before Ash Wednesday. Brought by the Spanish during the colonial period, the Barranquilla carnival was born as a result of various cultural manifestations around the city of Cartagena de Indias and later reached Barranquilla due to a mass migration, although the first antecedents of the festival They date back to the 19th century.
Between laughter and scares, the people of Barranquilla become ambassadors of joy during these days, wrapped in typical costumes of animals, mythological beings, costumes of Marimonda - a parody character of the cachaco, a political figure of the region -, Garabato - a costume that represents the slave struggle of the banana plantations against their masters; the Congo -in reference to a war dance from the African country-, or the Monocuco -a colorful version of the hoods of the Inquisition -.
To this we must add an imaginary of bull masks, festivals, satirical costumes and references to current popular culture through more than five hundred folkloric groups that parade, fight with flower cannons, sing and dance to their own universe of rhythms: There goes a man playing the millo cane, and the guaracha, the champeta, the Mapalé, and other examples of musical richness. Every human being can express themselves however they want - special mention to the various manifestations of the gay carnival, which already began in the 80s - in a plural and vibrant environment, between colorful pennants, improvised dances and showers of confetti.
The festivities begin with the pre-carnival and the Reading of the Bando in the Plaza de la Paz. Starting from this event, which remembers what is allowed and prohibited during the following days, the festival continues with the coronation of the queen. The great star presides over the event alongside King Momo in various events that revolve around the first day of carnival and the Battle of the Flowers, a large parade of floats across Via 40.
The second day, Carnival Sunday, features traditional folkloric groups during the Great Parade, also on Via 40. On Carnival Monday, the Great Fantasy Parade and the Orchestra Festival are celebrated. And on the last day, Carnival Tuesday, the burial of Joselito Carnaval takes place, “enguayabado” from so much partying as a symbol of the end of the festivities as a local adaptation of the well-known “burial of the sardine.”
Without a doubt, a golden ending to a party that grabs you and doesn't let go until the last moment. Only then, and after a well-deserved rest, can you reserve a day - no more - to discover some of the tourist places in the city.
Although Barranquilla is especially known for its carnival and being the birthplace of the famous singer Shakira, this industrial city tangled in mangroves also offers a day among its main highlights. We can start with the metropolitan cathedral and the Plaza de la Paz, to continue with the best panoramic view from La Ventana del Mundo, a structure located in the Altos de San Vicente neighborhood. As a cherry on top, there is nothing better than reaching the Bocas de Ceniza, the place where the Magdalena River makes love with the Caribbean Sea to give a landscape of beach, sand, sun and nature.
It may not take too many days, as Barranquilla catches you on the way to Santa Marta, La Guajira or other places of greatest interest on the coast. But yes: do not reject the idea of getting lost in a Barranquilla carnival that, for four days, is one of the great beacons of light, color and party on the entire planet.
