In unison, dozens of people sing an “ohhh” of admiration when they see how a whale's tail elegantly submerges in the ocean. The immense animal plays with the bow of the boat packed with tourists who, in turn, are loaded with cameras to capture the magical moment.
Whale watching is a booming activity in different countries. The routes that the gigantic animals travel throughout the seas have led to the creation of a specific tourism dedicated to admiring these majestic species.
In Iceland, going on a whale watching excursion is also an extremely popular activity. There is no tourist who has traveled to this country who has not been offered a boat trip. And there are some really spectacular ones. The paradox is when, once on land, the same tourist goes to a restaurant in the city and is offered whale stew. For some – less and less – it is just another tourist attraction. For others, an aberration that should end once and for all.
Iceland is one of three countries in the world where whaling is allowed, along with Norway and Japan. In September of this year, the Icelandic Government approved continuing to allow hunting, after a moratorium that had fueled the hope of conservationists and nature lovers. It was stated that it was very difficult to guarantee animal welfare in whaling, since killing them instantly on the high seas is practically impossible. Now, hunting has been allowed again, although the law insists on preserving animal welfare.
The Government had announced last year its intention to suspend hunting in 2024, as it is no longer a profitable activity due to the drop in consumption, an assertion that coincides with data from the only company in the country that is still dedicated to hunting. . Associations such as the Whale and Dolphin Association and Humane Society International welcomed the decision. They argued that cetaceans already face enough threats to their survival without adding commercial hunting.
Eventually, however, Iceland will go back to whaling. In a limited number, only from a species that is not in danger of extinction and guaranteeing the well-being of the animal. Sad decision for all those who claim that currently the economic benefit of whale watching activities far exceeds that of hunting.
If you talk to the people involved in the issue in Iceland, you see that, as with almost everything, it is not a black and white issue. There are always nuances. Even the tourist guides who admire the whale dances on the high seas explain that the economic potential of fishing just one specimen is so high, and benefits so many people, that it is difficult to give up a centuries-old practice, despite that conservationist arguments are increasingly stronger and more well-founded.
There are restaurants that years ago stopped serving whale meat on their menus, and they specify it clearly on their menu, as a seal of quality. And, on the contrary, there are still tourists who enter a certain establishment exclusively to try this delicacy which, they say, has certain similarities with beef entrecôte.
In reality, most of the whale meat hunted by Icelandic whalers ends up on the plates of curious tourists. Only 5% of locals consume it regularly. However, more than 60% of the population is in favor of hunting, according to recent surveys. They argue that it contributes to maintaining the stocks of other fish - something that experts deny - and, above all, that it is an industrial activity that since the end of the 19th century has contributed to economic growth. For many Icelanders, whaling is linked to national pride.
Be that as it may, experts consider that it is a matter of time – and less and less – before it is definitively banned. The arguments in favor of biodiversity and nature are gaining ground, and issues that were previously considered normal are no longer so and become residual and even reprehensible.
In Iceland, the best destinations to spot whales in all their splendor are the bays of Húsavík and Dalvik. On the whale watching circuits you can admire between nine and eleven species: humpbacks, fin whales, sperm whales, porpoises, minke, orcas and even the gigantic blue whale, the largest animal known on Earth.
You just need to go to the port and reserve a place on one of the many boats that go out to sea – just a little beyond the end of the bay – to be able to admire these animals. Although sighting is not guaranteed, it is practically always possible, since the boat skippers know the ideal places.
Húsavík Bay is very wide and fresh water reaches it from two river estuaries. The nutrients from these rivers accumulate in the winter months, and when summer arrives the cold waters of the bay are filled with plankton that powerfully attracts these animals.
There is a lot of adventure and almost a safari in the feeling of the tourist who boards one of these boats. Everyone puts their keen eye, or telephoto lens, to try to capture a dark shadow, a strange movement or an out of place wave. Perched on the main mast, the expert guide uses his binoculars to scan the immense blue of the sea until, finally, he can say over the public address system: “Ladies and gentlemen, there is a whale in the area.” The phrase provokes the joy of tourists, who gather around the side of the boat where they can admire the animal.
And the beast, usually, complies. As if she were a cabaret dancer ready to be admired, the whale rises and falls, sliding its majestic tail towards the depths. Sometimes she brushes her back against the hull of the ship, as if she wants to play with it. Many times, she jumps, to the delight of the observers, who go from respectful silence to enthusiastic shouts at the last caper.
Excursions are usually offered by boat or speed boat. The boats can offer a feeling of closer physical proximity to the whale, but the noise and speed often make them annoying neighbors in the bay. Instead, boats seem to be the whales' favorites. When they approach the area where the animals are, they turn off the engines and let the animals approach the boat. The respect for the animal is maximum and there is an admiration that is difficult to forget.
An extra is also offered on some excursions. As the ship sails out of the bay, passengers are treated to hot chocolate and cinnamon cookies. On the way back, with retinas full of indelible images, sometimes a further incentive completes an unforgettable day: rod fishing in a school of fish located from the main mast.
The cod, halibut or haddock fall at lightning speed, to squeals of excitement. Until reaching the port, on the same boat, the fish will be cleaned and cooked on a barbecue. Without a doubt, a tourist has never eaten fresher fish.
