The Spanish designers who will define next season's wardrobes

The Catalan catwalk combines freshness and experience.

Oliver Thansan
Oliver Thansan
06 May 2024 Monday 10:26
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The Spanish designers who will define next season's wardrobes

The Catalan catwalk combines freshness and experience. A showcase of trends and artisanal excellence that predicts where the Spanish industry is heading and who will mark next season's wardrobes. A fashion week that edition after edition highlights what is made in Spain, from the artisan to the creative.

Domingo Rodríguez Lázaro's first memory in fashion dates back to his childhood. Attentive to his mother's work, this designer discovered the art of embroidery and leather goods at home. But it was his first figurine drawings and the costumes made with scraps to dress his dolls that sparked the fashion bug in this 29-year-old designer. His story, like his style, is similar to that of Jean Paul Gaultier and, as he was at the time, Dominnico today represents a necessary change of direction towards a diverse and label-free fashion.

“I think that we should not label ourselves, we must be totally free and be able to represent and respect ourselves as we are,” he acknowledges. For him, his designs represent a “safe space” in which there is no judgment and this season they take on a historicist aspect and a seafaring aesthetic.

Alejandra Valero has deep-rooted values ​​such as efficiency, resilience and the importance of teamwork. She learned it from her mother, with whom she has shared a bridal atelier since 2013 in the Salamanca neighborhood of Madrid, and from her first years at Inditex. There she started her professional career, a stage that changed her vision of fashion, productivity and processes. She now holds the position of creative director of Hoss Intropia, and has been a key player in the relaunch of the brand in 2021.

As proof of its success, the brand debuted at the recent edition of 080 Bcn Fashion with the 'Holi' collection, a line inspired by the Hindu spring festival, a vibrant celebration known as the festival of colors and life. Craftsmanship marks a collection in which feminine and romantic silhouettes, worked with natural and airy fabrics, are an artistic expression of the festivity.

The origin of Sita Murt dates back a century, 1924, to the Esteve Aguilera factory in Igualada (Barcelona), specialized in knitwear. It was in the eighties when Sita Murt took the reins of the industrial business and transferred it to the world of fashion. With effort and dedication, creating and innovating, he took his eponymous brand to internationalization and to the catwalk. A legacy that, after his death, remains in force with the design of Anna Porta and Raquel Cardona.

Without losing sight of a century-old trajectory, but with an eye always on the future, the latest collection presented at 080 Bcn Fashion is woven. Knitting continues to be the center of his creations, where the mix of threads and textures gives rise to pieces of high quality and visual richness. A collection with personality, where raw color and black coexist with feminine tones and nuances, such as eucalyptus green, butter or honey color. A color palette that defines the essence of Sita Murt and that represents her so much.

With a loyal clientele that has grown up with her, designer Maite Muñoz's garments are pure sophistication. The name of his brand, Lebor Gabala, is a regular on the poster of the Catalan catwalk and in it represents that important message that has little impact on the new generations and that defends the creation of a timeless and good quality wardrobe, for environmental reasons. and also, why not, in favor of elegance.

The designer Pedro Morago taught him the importance of pattern making and craftsmanship when he was 18 years old. “Nowadays students want to run a lot and it is very important that they know the entire process from below,” explains the dressmaker, who has been in this industry all her life. Her background has led her to perfect the techniques for working knitting and wool, and her wraparound coats, inspired this season by the Scottish Highlands, show that quality and craftsmanship never go out of style.