There is only one thing in Orio that can compete for fame with the fans of rowing and trajineras in this coastal town in Gipuzkoa where the Oria River flows into: sea bream. The sought-after fish is king here, with its own way of grilling it and a place where what is known as Orio-style sea bream was invented: Asador Joxe Mari. Three generations of grillers and more than 60 years of history support this kitchen of products and fire. Seeing Mikel Monterola work on his grill located in the heart of the town is quite a spectacle. And the proof that we are in the cathedral of the bream.
"You are born a barbecue", defends Sofia Mendibil. She is the etxekoandre (housewife) in this new generation of the historic Asador Joxe Mari where the division of tasks between the couple is, like the grill and the way of working the fish, part of the tradition: he on the fire, She is responsible for the room, sommelier and axis of the renovation of this house whose history dates back to 1957.
The Monterola saga goes back to Joxe Mari, a weigher turned grill man and a pioneer in the town in using fire to grill something other than sardines. Then it was the turn of the son Andoni who, together with his mother (many knew the grill as Panxitaenea, the house of Panxita, the name of the widow), consolidated and popularized the way of roasting sea bream that later became known as "Orio style". . And now it is the turn of Mikel, grandson of the founder and recently chosen as the best barbecue in the Basque Country.
Although the so-called besuguera -a kind of grill in the shape of fish- is a very common element in Basque grills, the so-called Orio style is based on doing without it and placing the pieces directly on the grill.
But does the way of cooking it really show on the plate? We asked Monterola as he moves between the fire and the huge table where he cleans and prepares the fish. Some already roasted pieces rest for a few minutes, between bottles of oil and vinegar.
If there is something to hide in the recipe or preparation, it is the worst place in the world, because we are in the heart of Orio and seeing the grill man at work makes many who walk through the area stop to browse, and some are encouraged to ask. It is hard to imagine a better claim for a restaurant.
"Without besuguera, the fish is closer to the fire, the heat is stronger and the skin is browned, thick enough to protect the meat," explains Monterola. The downside is that it requires permanent attention to get the perfect fish point. There is no mathematical formula, just an experienced eye and ear to know when to remove the fish.
Also to estimate the short rest time before opening it in half and removing the central spine. It is better that they remain rare, because then they finish cooking with the heat of the refry, he comments. The preparation of this combination of oil, vinegar, garlic and chilli is part of the sea bream ritual.
In a frying pan, fry the garlic over high heat with plenty of oil until golden brown. Pour them over the clean sea bream and drain the oil, now without the garlic, back into the pan, which returns to the heat with a stream of vinegar and a circular movement that, together with the protein that the fish has released, emulsifies and gives consistency to this mixture, the quintessence of the most traditional and delicious Basque cuisine.
The sea bream is at 98 euros per kilo. A figure that will not scare those who know the price that this highly valued fish usually has. We have recently seen it at 120 euros per kilo in a restaurant in San Sebastián, we told Mikel. Well, there they work with our same supplier, he tells us with a half smile and the pan in his hand.
The smallest pieces are around a kilo and are served for two diners, but there are also larger sea breams, perfect for larger tables that go as far as Joxe Mari -or repeat- to try not only the house specialty, but also that way of grilling who was born in this tavern.
"They are from the Bay of Biscay, not from here," Mikel Monterola readily admits, "there is hardly any sea bream left on the Basque coast." A topic that is often taboo, but one that is approached naturally. And the season? It lasts almost the whole year, he explains, searching in port markets along the Cantabrian coast or looking out into the Atlantic.
Now, in summer and high season, this ritual is repeated up to 40 times a day. Most of the clients, of course, ask for sea bream, although they also work turbot, hake and old cow chop. In addition, a sensational leg of octopus and some piquillo peppers with a sauce whose recipe they do not let go of are passed through the same grill. Depending on the season, they also work with asparagus, peas and other vegetables.
