In countries with a Christian tradition, the great profusion of churches never ceases to attract attention. It seems as if the little walks cost our ancestors a world, and temples appear located a few meters from others, towns with a small population have a good handful of oratories, in the large towns there are dozens of them in the same neighborhood or district...
Even with this dynamic, finding two churches attached wall to wall, “Siamese style” is something truly exceptional. It happens in the city of Porto, in Portugal, where Carmo (Carmen) and Carmelitas lean against each other, separated only by a narrow strip of work, which is somewhat mysterious but has an explanation.
The two temples face the open and bright plaza that displays the Lions Fountain, where tourists swarm, prospecting the historic center of the river city. There are not so many who enter the oratories. And on the wall facing north, the Carmo church is lined with classic Portuguese tiles, which in this case reproduce a congregation of faithful, led by priests and a bishop in what seems like a miraculous scene, very striking. attention.
Inside, the Carmo church is rococo, somewhat dark, although the brightness of the gilding of the altarpieces and images provides some light. As there is a fee, you take a one-way itinerary that guides you through the chapels, the sacristy, an exhibition of notable processional crosses and, at the end, you pass through the very narrow staircase that corresponds to the building that separates the two. churches, and which from the outside looks simply like a partition.
It is actually the home set up for the craftsmen who worked on the altarpieces and images, carving the altars and chapels. Since the work took a long time, they took refuge in this house, which – they claim – is the narrowest in the entire country. It is believable, since there is really hardly any room to pass. The rooms are located one above the other, climbing a staircase that leads to landings where only dining rooms, kitchens, bathrooms and Lilliputian bedrooms can be located.
When leaving Carmo, there is the “Siamese” church of the Carmelites to visit. This is free access, it is distinguished by being a much less ornate baroque and because its bell tower is crowned by a bulb, while that of Carmo simply shows a triangular belfry. The classic Portuguese tiles also appear, although in this case they are more functional and less spectacular, with geometric designs.
The interior is very ornate. The image of Saint Elias stands out, holding a flaming sword. Experts consider this oratory one of the most important in Portugal in its style, with a Latin cross plan with a single nave and six side chapels plus the entrance atrium. The golden decoration, meticulous to the point of paroxysm, can take a long time to contemplate. Curiously, this free-to-visit church is less frequented than its Siamese church on the right. Perhaps because it does not have the spectacular sacristy with painted ceilings or the collection of arm-shaped reliquaries that rise to the sky in a glass case, as if supplicating.
Once outside, it is worth taking another look at the joint façade of the “Siamese” churches, which most people believe to be one, and admiring the middle wall, where it seems impossible to host a home.
