Wrapped in an aura of mystery and hypnotic colors, Pedro del Hierro has taken his entire audience to a remote island in the Arctic Circle, where the first northern lights arrive. Responsible for kicking off the 79th edition of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid (MBFWMadrid), this magical moment marked by an impeccable staging has been the common thread of Borealis, the proposal for next autumn. winter by Nacho Aguayo and Álex Miralles.
This is a very special year for Pedro del Hierro, as it marks 50 years since the birth of the brand, and with this collection they wanted to reflect the essence of the house, where color, beauty and time merge to make the viewer vibrate.
“We loved the concept of the northern lights to reflect the night, the idea of cold, winter, and we brought it to the Pedro del Hierro world to elevate it and dress it up,” Miralles explains to La Vanguardia. On the catwalk, padded outerwear, coccoon-like silhouettes, coats, tailoring and shiny fabrics took center stage. And, sitting in the front row, Tamara Falcó played the double role of special guest and creative, presenting a selection of looks from her brand TFP by Tamara Falcó.
Aguayo and Miralles' inspiration draws from everyday actions, the small details, from all those women and men who accompany them daily. The women's collection, by Nacho Aguayo, and the men's collection, designed by Álex Miralles, share the entire color chart, fabrics, silhouettes and imagery of garment typology.
“Neither the masculine is so masculine nor the feminine so feminine. Miralles uses many fabrics or types of women, which when worn to men, give them a new masculinity,” adds Aguayo, before reflecting on gender fluidity. “On the catwalk we show women's blouses on men and much more masculine garments on women. The genderless code is a reality, and we have the responsibility to meet the needs of clients.”
Simorra has been another of the earliest risers on the Madrid catwalk. After the success achieved in the previous edition, the Catalan firm has presented its second proposal, The memory of time, inspired by fossils and the presence of life preserved in an instant.
“This is a memory of our time and everything that has happened,” explains Eva Dimas, brand manager for the firm. Once again, fabrics are placed at the epicenter of the collection, using their ancestral capacity to excite and tell stories. In this subject, Simorra is an outstanding student. Proof of this were the three-dimensional fabrics, spiral gatherings on technical fabric or nappa and denim worked with geometric pleating techniques seen on the catwalk.
Acromatyx has made the public vibrate with a dark collection that is divided into three parts that represent three different moments in electronic music. The result is a minimalist tailoring that coexists with the urban and the shine of liquid metal, and is dressed at night with glitter and rhinestones.
For its part, Mans made its particular fusion of modern sophistication and timeless elegance, inspired by the English countryside and dandy style, putting special focus on dresses in various patterns, from those with a scarf effect to the most volatile ones.
