For the generation of fashionistas that nurtured their affiliation in the 2010s, Mary Katrantzou is one of the names that put London back at the forefront of the industry. Along with Christopher Kane, Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi from Preen or Erdem Moralioglu; she rebuilt the innovative image that the fashion capital had lost since the first steps of Galliano and McQueen.
For the uninitiated, a summary of her extensive merits: Trained at Central Saint Martins under the legendary Louise Wilson, Katrantzou developed a hyper-recognizable aesthetic and unique personality for her brand using Photoshop, a tool no one had ever applied to design. of clothes. Armed with a computer, she endowed her garments with unprecedented dimensions with prints created from photographs of everyday objects.
Unpublished, too, was his decision to depart from the parade calendar in 2019 after holding the parade for the following spring's collection in the temple of Poseidon in his native Greece. “It was our couture debut, more in line with the way I believe,” she shares from London.
“When we decide to put on a new show I want to feel a connection to the place and allow it to inspire the collection and enhance the experience.” With that show that transformed his business model (in addition to ready-to-wear and the Mary-Mare holiday line, he creates custom-made garments) it was also the starting point for his collaboration with Bulgari, which lent archive jewelery so that the models wore them during the presentation.
“I love working with companies and people who are leaders in their field and learning from their technical knowledge adding the personal touch of my brand to give a new perspective.” A few years and two joint projects later, they present a third joint delivery, three limited edition bags that revolve around the iconic Serpenti motif: “We both feel a strong synergy and find common ground in our appreciation of bright colours, strong symbolism and daring elegance”, he comments.
From the beginning they welcomed me and made me feel like family. I sketched this collaboration a few weeks before giving birth and we finished developing it just a few weeks after my son was born. Welcoming him made me feel more creative than ever and I really enjoyed working during this special time in my life.”
Inspired by the idea of the Garden of Eden, it was not the first time that the designer drew this idyllic setting: "I created my personal Garden of Eden when developing the ideas for my son's christening on the island of Spetses last year" , he recalls describing a setting of primary colors, floral sculptures and views of the Aegean Sea. “It was wonderful to be surrounded by our closest friends and family; of the godmothers of Michael S.A.R. Princess Marie Chantal, Sabine Getty and Eugene Niarchos, who wore unique hand-embroidered gowns inspired by the narrative of made-to-order plates."
The result on this occasion are pieces that combine the characteristic style of the designer with the know-how of Bulgari. "Having the opportunity to access an archive so rich in history to create new narratives without losing its connection to the past is an honor for me," he comments on these three unique pieces with manufacturing processes that balance the best of craftsmanship. with the latest technological advances. “Technology allows us to push the limits of creativity. We design with precision, each dress is individually cut and tailored so that the prints and images appear perfect. We apply the exact same methodology when we work to create unique bags that look like jewelry.”
