Go ahead, the advertising slogan for “Switzerland of Central Asia” sounds pretty pretentious. But yes, some Kyrgyz prints offer a certain resemblance to the Alpine country. For example: in the lush meadows of the Canyon of the Seven Bulls, between slopes covered with conifers, it is not hard to imagine Heidi frolicking. Nor on the shores of Lake Issyk, in view of some snow-capped peaks in the distance... Although without a doubt, one of the most Helvetic settings of it are the shores of Lake Son (the Son-Kul) covered with edelweiss.
The delicate snow flower, with plush white petals, finds the optimal conditions to grow at 3,000 meters of altitude in the Tian Shan mountain range, the “heavenly mountains”. It is an area of summer pastures, also called jailoo, where Kyrgyz herders keep their herds of cows, sheep, horses and goats. In fact, in winter the place is covered by a thick blanket of snow and its accesses are closed. Meanwhile, a layer of ice more than a meter thick is forming on the surface of the lake.
Here the visitor finds the experience of nomadic life. You can enjoy the proverbial Kyrgyz hospitality, staying in yurts – much more comfortable than the traditional ones – and sipping kumis, a typical drink made from fermented mare's milk (not suitable for all palates). Among other activities, there is the option of horseback riding, fishing, strolling through that starry sea of edelweiss... and even eventually attending a game of kok-ború, the national sport.
It is a game in which two teams of riders compete to seize a goat carcass –sometimes replaced by a reproduction– to deposit it in the opponent's goal and score the maximum number of goals. Recognized by Unesco as an intangible cultural heritage of humanity, it even has a professional league.
On the gentle rocky elevations that surround Son-Kul, you can also admire petroglyphs, rock carvings that testify to the presence in the area of shepherds for centuries.
And the lake itself is an attraction. Its turquoise waters bathe an area of about 270 km2, with an extension of 29 kilometers from end to end. Even without being particularly deep – it barely exceeds 13 meters – it constitutes the largest freshwater deposit in the country. In fact, it is its second lake after the aforementioned Issyk – whose waters are slightly saline – and hence its name: Son means “next”.
Curiously, there were no fish until 1959 when several species were brought. But today the fish from the lake can be bought in markets in distant cities such as Narín and Kochkor. The Son-Kul also has dozens of species of waterfowl. And on the wild shores, far from the yurt camps, you can spot predators like the endangered snow leopard, wolf and fox. In fact, the eastern part of the lake belongs to the Karatal-Zhapyryk nature reserve.
The legend about the origin of the Son-Kul tells of a khan, a Tartar chief, who had ordered the kidnapping of the most beautiful young women in the entire Tian Shan, to increase his harem. The mountains, moved, flooded the khan's palace and all his territory with their waters. When the lake formed, it absorbed the beauty of the girls, hence its charm... What this story does not tell is how the Son-Kul came to bejewel with edelweiss, that emblem of a country –Switzerland– located more than 5,000 kilometers away.
