Austria en tren a ritmo de Strauss

In 1864, Johann Strauss paid his personal tribute to the railway by composing the polka The Pleasure Train.

Oliver Thansan
Oliver Thansan
22 November 2023 Wednesday 09:33
4 Reads
Austria en tren a ritmo de Strauss

In 1864, Johann Strauss paid his personal tribute to the railway by composing the polka The Pleasure Train. Like a good polka, it happens at a fast, almost frenetic pace, to evoke the rattling of the carriages and imitating the whistles and snorts of steam that characterized the nineteenth-century trains that the musician frequented so much during his tours in Europe, and even in the United States. . So Strauss' chords become a fabulous soundtrack to embark on a tour of his native Austria. A country where trains abound today and where polkas, waltzes, symphonies and operas never stop.

Vienna, the city that Strauss loved so much, is the most recognizable exponent of all this. But in every corner of the Austrian lands you can catch that music-loving passion. Even in corners as far away from the capital as the small town of Bregenz, located on the shores of Lake Constance. On the occasion of the Bregenz summer festival, one of the most daring stages in world opera is being built on these waters. There resonate arias and cantatas composed by the greats of the genre, be they Italians like Verdi, Germans like Wagner, or French like Bizet. And of course the local idol is never missing: Wolfang Amadeus Mozart.

However, if it comes to listening to this colossus of baroque music, the opportunities multiply any month of the year in Salzburg. Concerts with his compositions are scheduled in the house where the genius was born in 1756. He is also heard on tourist boats on the Salzach River or on private tours with self-guided concerts. Likewise, his music fills the Mirabell palace, where the songs from The Sound of Music are also evoked, whose plot is based on a real Von Trapp family that resided in Salzburg. And of course, Amadeus concerts are scheduled in the most iconic monument of their city, that is, the fortress that rises to the heights.

From up there you can see the enormous monumental heritage of Salzburg. Such an endless number of churches and palaces, together with the gigantic figure of Mozart, make it a preferred destination in the country. Although the shadow of his most famous son is long and extends to other cities. For example, to nearby Linz, located just over an hour by train from Salzburg.

There is also a Mozarthaus there. It is the house where Mozart composed his Linz Symphony in just 3 days to thank Count Thun for his hospitality in such an elegant residence located in the Altstadt. That is, the old town where its great monuments are still preserved today, such as the castle converted into a museum or the Hauptplatz, which is one of the most spectacular baroque complexes in Central Europe. And just a step away from this main square is the imposing bed of the Danube, the blue river that stars in the most famous waltz composed by the eldest of the Strauss brothers.

Right on the banks of the Danube, Anton Bruckner, another 19th century Austrian composer, closely linked to Linz as the organist of the city's great temples, especially the old cathedral, is honored. In his honor, the modern Brucknerhaus was built on the river bank, which has become one of the most interesting auditoriums in the republic, both for enjoying great historical symphonies and other more current ones.

The attractive mix between ancient and contemporary is a striking note during a trip through Austria. And perhaps Graz is the place where tradition and novelty best blend. It is manifested in its streets full of antique shop windows and the latest fashion trends. It is also confirmed when going up to the Schlossberg hill and its iconic Clock Tower, an ascent that is made both on a 19th century funicular and in a fast glass elevator that literally crosses the rocky spur where the tower sits. .

And what can we say about the Kunsthaus? The new symbol of Graz, an absolutely shapeless building, so difficult to describe that the locals have renamed this contemporary art museum the alien friend. Its dark facades do not maintain any reference to its monumental surroundings and, however, since its inauguration in 2003, surprisingly that curved methacrylate with nozzles or horns that look to the sky is perfectly intertwined with the historic city.

A stone's throw from the Kunsthaus and built in the same year is the Murinsel, which as its name indicates is an island on the Mura River that runs through Graz. But it is an island of steel and glass that hosts a stage for cultural events. and also current music concerts. A unique floating auditorium that coexists wonderfully with the historic theaters of Graz such as the Opera or the Musikverein für Steiermark. In short, the objective is clear, that the music of yesterday or today does not stop. Neither in Graz, nor in all of Austria.