Along the coastal strip of the Mare Nostrum we can recognize two types of places: those that are Mediterranean and those that are very Mediterranean. In this second group we could talk about the colorful towns of the Italian Cinque Terre, a yacht club on the Côte d'Azur or the mills of the Cyclades islands in Greece. However, when we talk about the Alicante coast, all eyes are on the fascinating Altea, its whitewashed, blue doors and the sea spying at the end of each alley.
The irresistible topics of the Mediterranean hatch in this iconic town just 10 kilometers from Benidorm to promise a journey in time and space through as many artistic corners as dream streets.
In the distance, Altea Hills and many other urbanizations can be seen. It is the outline of a tourist tsunami that began in the 1960s but was contained in time. Here, the fabric of a door sways, a white house seems to sigh. Two teenagers live their summer love under a bougainvillea. There are hanging clothes, indigo doors and cool ladies. This neighborhood is called Bellaguarda and its name refers to the watchtower that still seems to protect Altea from old pirates and, I suspect, also from the whims of urban planning.
You leave the neighborhood and follow a donkey with amphorae loaded with water -perhaps real, perhaps imaginary- that disappears when you hear the noise coming from the heart of Altea la Vella, the steep old town, where exquisite alleyways are interspersed with painting workshops, boho chic clothing stores and trendy restaurants. It is the most touristy side of Altea but, if you scratch, you will discover a whole universe of its own with art as the flag and the viewpoints offering furtive views.
The Puerta de València -or Portal Vell-, together with the Puerta del Mar, are the only two original entrances to the old town that remain from the old Renaissance wall. As we ascend to the top of the hill, the viewpoint of Portal Vell is already It offers a unique panoramic view of whitewashed people making love to the sea and the silhouette of the Peñón de Ifach, in Calpe, in the distance. Few prints evoke in such a genuine way that Alicante Mediterranean that we came to look for.
We slip through Santa Bárbara street, and the paintings of an artist shine at the entrance of the workshop. There are flower pots of all colors in the window, children playing ball and echoes of neo-Mudéjar charm in Casa Cervantes, one of the most eclectic buildings in the old town. At some point, a street corner seems to reveal the image of the German engraver Eberhard Schlotter or the painter Joan Navarro Ramón seated in front of an easel and, behind, the horizon. Just two of the many names that were once seduced by this town full of muses in wave dresses.
And there, as we ascend, we can glimpse the blue tiles of the church of Nuestra Señora del Consuelo, known as the Dome of the Mediterranean and built in the 19th century in the Baroque style. Upon reaching the church, the square unfolds an endless number of terraces and the merriment confirms why the world adores Altea. All this, without missing the views from the Cronistas de España viewpoint, which allows you to contemplate the bay of Altea and the distant skyscrapers of Benidorm. Only then do you decide between staying here, continuing lost in the alleys, or taking a bath.
After peeking out from the top of Altea la Vella, the saltpeter whets our appetite. The good news is that there is no shortage of options: from the rice dishes at the charming La Capella restaurant to the tapas in the interior patio of Ca Pere, to an almond croissant at the iconic De Sabors pastry shop. The sun is high and on the Paseo Marítimo the souvenir shops coexist with cafeterias that hide art galleries -the Grand Café Rouge is one of my recommendations- and the blue, oh the Altea blue!, accentuated by the white pebbles instead of sand.
The urban beach is not the only one you will find, since along the coast of the municipality there are many other options. La Olla beach, more than a kilometer long, offers incredible views of the Peñón de Ifach; and Cal Negret, with a semi-urban character, is perfect for going with the family. If in your case you are looking to get lost among cliffs, the Doctor's cove cannot be missing from the list.
Once you immerse yourself in the Mediterranean, the distant peaks invite you to discover the secrets of the Serra Gelada natural park, secret coves such as Tío Ximo or the hiking trail to the El Albir lighthouse, also ideal for families. Or better: even a visit to the first Russian Orthodox church, built by Russian immigrants who arrived in Spain in the 90s after the dissolution of the USSR.
Many routes start in Altea, including those inland and focused on active and cultural tourism. Perhaps you decide to reach the bowels of the Serra de Bèrnia, visit the charming town of Guadalest or stay there, in the viewpoint of the church square in contemplative mode.
Just a few streets away, the donkey descends again with amphoras full of water and, in the distance, the Benidorm skyline represents a possible next stop. All times seem to intersect, but you stay here, next to the blue dome. Submerged in this canvas that the Mediterranean took so many years to paint.
