The wine of the week: Centenari Perelada 2020

The great oenologist Delfí Sanahuja has created a new top-of-the-range wine, from now on the main icon of Perelada, with which to pay a double tribute.

Oliver Thansan
Oliver Thansan
06 May 2023 Saturday 23:04
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The wine of the week: Centenari Perelada 2020

The great oenologist Delfí Sanahuja has created a new top-of-the-range wine, from now on the main icon of Perelada, with which to pay a double tribute.

On the one hand, it wants to pay tribute to the centenary of Perelada as a wine and cava producer and, on the other, it recognizes the work of Javier Suqué, the president of the winery. Delfí Sanahuja assures that "Javier Suqué has knowledge as an oenologist and has been leading the project for more than 30 years, tasting and participating in the definition of the blends of our wines."

Sanahuja has come to produce two red wines to end up selecting, finally, the one that he liked the most to celebrate the anniversary. At the same time, a Guarda Superior cava has been produced to celebrate the centenary. The DO Empordà winery announces the Centenari Perelada as "one of the highest-end wines" and as a "unique" red. Of this first vintage, only 1,074 three-quarter-liter bottles have been produced.

It is also added that "this limited edition wants to be a tribute to the visionary dream of a family, now 100 years ago, to recover centuries of winemaking tradition in the Empordà". This first vintage will continue only with wines from large vintages, as long as the quality required by the winery is met.

Delfí Sanahuja is of the opinion, like Oscar Wilde, that there is nothing as dangerous as being too modern, since one runs the risk of suddenly becoming outdated. For this reason, he has chosen to create a wine that transitions between the modern and the classic, with a historical grape variety that represents the Empordà territory and that is very well adapted to its terroir (garnacha, known locally as lledoner) and a variety international that represents innovation and experimentation in Perelada (the syrah).

He has designed a wine “for reflection”, like the ones Javier Suqué likes. In other words, that it be “very frank and clean, with an expression of fruit and purity”. He says that the president of Perelada is a perfectionist, and that he likes to reflect: “when something is proposed to him, he always answers that he thinks about it, and that he tells you something”.

Centenari Perelada 1923-2023 is made with a selection of selections, grain by grain, of red Garnacha grapes (33%) and syrah (67%) from one of the most beautiful vineyards in Catalonia, that of Garbet, located between Llançà and Colera, in the bay of Cap Ras. From Perelada they claim that it is their "jewel in the crown".

There are 12 hectares on the shores of the Mediterranean in the Alt Empordà, to the north of Cap de Creus, combed by the north wind and planted since 1997 in mountainous terrain with a slate composition, which requires cultivation on terraces. The sea reinforces its insolation by reflecting sunlight, also acting as a thermal regulator. The harvest is manual, in boxes. Given the difficulties of the vintage, due to a great affectation by the mildew fungus, it was necessary to pay more care to the selection. The berries were picked both in the vineyard and at the entrance to the winery, on a sorting table.

The elaboration of this commemorative wine premiered the spectacular new Perelada winery, designed by the prestigious RCR Arquitectes firm. They have up to 188 deposits to be able to make meticulous preparations. It fermented with native yeasts at a controlled temperature in stainless steel tanks with a capacity of 600 and 1,000 liters. A 10% well-lignified stem was used, and a three-day pre-fermentation maceration was performed at 10°C. Some carbon dioxide was injected into the deposits to prevent oxidation. The aging lasted for 12 months in French oak barrels of fine grain and medium toasting, with a capacity of 300 litres. It has been made with low doses of sulfur (50 grams per liter of total SO2) thinking that it has aging capacity. It was bottled in March 2022, in bottles with a “modern and attractive” design. Two years, 1923 and 2023, preside over his label. It has spent a year in the bottle before being put on the market.

Medium-high robe and a beautiful cherry color, with purple tones. It is expressed with floral (rose petal), balsamic and fresh red and black fruit notes. It also shows hints of pepper, chocolate and Mediterranean through aromatic garrigue herbs. All this in a wine with a velvety tactile sensation, with round and ripe tannins. Its 14º of alcohol and its aging in wood are very well integrated into the wine.

It is an elegant and silky red that balances with youth. It is broad and fills the mouth. It is a refined and stylized red with which the aim is to reflect the landscape in which it was born. Delfí Sanahuja has sought and found balance and excellence in a wine that will improve with more time per bottle. Better to enjoy it in a burgundy type glass. It is recommended to serve it at a temperature of 16º C.

Ideal to accompany sea and mountain dishes, such as roast chicken with scampi or rice with pork ribs and prawns from Palamós, duck magret with strawberry sauce, oxtail, mushroom cannelloni or even a recuit of Fonteta rag. Delfí Sanahuja likes to harmonize it, especially with cuttlefish meatballs. And the president of the company, Javier Suqué, loves to accompany it with the veal fricandó that they cook at his house or at the restaurant of the Hotel Perelada Wine Spa

From Perelada it is stated that they are now celebrating 100 years of wines and cavas "that reflect the purest essence of the Empordà, with character, presence and international recognition". They add that they add up to 100 years of tradition and host spirit. They already export 32% of their wines and cavas. They have set out to reach exports that add up to 60% of their production in just 3 years.

To do this, they hope to strengthen their presence in international markets such as the United States, the United Kingdom, Germany, Belgium, Sweden, Switzerland, Japan and China. 55% of Perelada's sales are concentrated in Catalonia and 13% in the rest of the national market. 51% of its production (around five million bottles per year) corresponds to cavas, and the rest to still wines.

Perelada has announced that its main strategic objective is to position itself as a leader in sustainability. The new stage, as Javier Suqué explained, will focus on working to "be a benchmark in sustainability and continue to grow in quality". In the coming years they will advance in the extension of regenerative agriculture practices, and in 2025 all their vineyards will already have organic farming certification.

They are also working to expand irrigation with water recovered from the treatment plant or semi-subterranean irrigation. In addition, it has been announced that they are looking for farms located at higher altitudes, more humid areas or varieties resistant to drought and high temperatures to combat the effects of climate change. At the same time, they will use bottles weighing 100 grams lighter than usual, with a rough texture and 100% recyclable. In the next 5 years they plan to launch more than 200 sustainable initiatives.