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The catwalks of this tandem are always among the most talked about not only because of the conceptual exercise that their designs contain, but also because of their exclusive front row and the performances they perform during their shows. The last one, to present the spring/summer 2024 collection, has been no exception.
Milan Fashion Week is halfway through this Thursday and Prada has been the strong bet of the day. An immense crowd of fans waits behind the fences, in front of the Prada Foundation, for the star guests of the show to arrive. A renewed Rosalía, dressed in an updated tailored suit with a floor-length skirt and knit vest, emerges from a car. The crowd goes crazy. Kylie Jenner will later sit next to her and the image of them together in the Prada front row will flood social networks. Nothing is comparable, however, with the fan phenomenon caused by K-pop and its artists. Asia has invaded the luxury market in all its aspects and this parade shows it.
Like a large metal box full of vents, the space takes on an industrial, hard and rigid air. However, with the first model's walk, it is clear that this collection explores the opposite. Following in the wake of the men's collection presented in Milan last June, the creative duo presents in their women's line a new way of observing the silhouette and beauty through fluid shapes. A cheer has emerged from the first rows of the front row when a viscous substance has begun to descend from the ceiling.
Like a waterfall, conveniently creating triangular shapes, and with the walk of the first model, the liquid screens that formed said substance allowed the new Prada line to be observed under a new prism. The performance has served its conceptual purpose and has also become the viral detail of the presentation, being the protagonist of the Instagram stories of those present.
This line with rock notes that contrast with romantic details, such as the use of tulle and shiny appliqués, recovers the fringe to talk about fluidity and movement. She is the undisputed protagonist of the collection and is worn in all types of garments and formats: from corseted belts, in constant movement with the model's step, to shirts, skirts and dresses.
The 3D flowers that obsess the industry are transformed in the hands of Prada into illustrations fragmented by fringes, as if they had gone through a paper shredder, and fluorine, in mules and ballerinas, intervenes as a detail in contrast to the outfits of autumnal and neutral tones. Everything at Prada transforms and evolves. Thus, the XL headbands that she made a trend in the past are updated in the form of wide ribbons that almost look like turbans.
Shoulder pads are present on oversized jackets fitted at the waist, as well as on twenties-style dresses, shirts and jackets. It is the iconic Prada triangle, which is present in this line through the silhouette: broad shoulders and marked waists.
With the final carousel, the liquid substance stops gushing from the ceiling and the gaze of everyone present is directed to the backstage doors. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons appear to receive the guests' applause, which intensifies with the appearance on stage of a third party: Fabio Zambernardi. It is the designer's last rodeo for the Italian brand after decades working hand in hand with Miuccia Prada. The Prada trio say goodbye happily and with applause knowing that, once again, they have managed to make the world of fashion a space for art as well.
